SOUTH AMERICA - 2023 | PART 2

URUGUAY

Uruguay is a tiny country but incredibly progressive. Weed is legal. Abortions are easily accessible. Gay marriage, universal health care, free education-including college. And about 98% of its energy is produced from renewables. Montevideo is the country's only major city and it contains half the country's population, which is still not a whole lot – about 1.4 million.

It’s a pretty chill and peaceful country, probably a lot to do with its landscape: soft with slightly undulating meadows and no great natural landmarks. It’s unassuming but filled with style and beautiful people. There is a magical vibe to it!

1st STOP – JOSE IGNACIO

 We flew to Montevideo and drove from there to Jose Ignacio (depending on where you are flying from you can fly directly to Punta del Este which would be closer).

Uruguay’s Ruta Nacional 10 begins in the capital city of Montevideo, then ambles through suburbs and hills before making its way to the coast, where it connects Punta del Estate with a dozen or so little beach towns along its way. While Punta del Este is a favorite vacation spot of well-heeled Argentines and Brazilians, who party until dawn in the clubs and recover on the beach all day, that is a scene that does not appeal at all. We chose the more laid-back Jose Ignacio instead, a small beach community 45 minutes farther up the coast.

On the way to Jose Ignacio we drove through La Barra, Bikini Beach, Manantiales with lots of shops and restaurants along the way. We stopped at La Linda Bakery for a snack. A fantastic setting with scrumptious baked goods.

Other potential stops along the way:

Pablo Atchugarry Foundation - Pablo Atchugarry is a famous Uruguayan sculptor who works mainly with marble and metal. Beautiful indoor & outdoor exhibits.

Los Dedos sculpture – in Playa Brava, which has a giant buried hand and exposed fingertips on display.

We finally got to our destination. For decades the fishing village of Jose Ignacio was a well-kept secret. It was prized for its simplicity: low-rise architecture, unspoiled beaches and a quirky artistic community. Even though it has been “discovered”, it still retains its charm. Maybe if you have known the Jose Ignacio of the past you would be disappointed with how its developed, but for us its sandy streets, avant-garde designer houses half-hidden behind modest fishing shacks, and the grassy central plaza still make it an idyllic spot.

It can, however, get very busy and crowded during the Summer. To avoid that we chose mid-March, considered low season, and while some places were already closed for the season, the peace and quiet is worth the trade-off!

STAY: Posada Ayana

A stone’s throw from José Ignacio’s La Mansa beach, this posada was built by Austrian art collectors Robert and Edda Kofler. It is thoughtfully designed and decorated with rare art and vintage furniture sourced locally and restored. The Koflers also commissioned the legendary American Light and Space artist James Turrell to create a Skyspace installation right next to the posada. It is a large pyramid-shaped structure called Ta Khut, or “The Light” in early Egyptian, with its exterior concealed by grass and plants and its apex punctuated by a white sphere, crafted using some 42 tons of small marble bricks. You can visit it at sunrise or sunset to experience its magic, which is hard to describe and must be felt.

TO DO

  • The Lighthouse – climb the 121 steps to get a wonderful view of Jose Ignacio.

  • Bookshop & Café Rizoma – stunning architecture and curated collection of books.

  • Bike around town and check out all its charming boutiques (bikes are provided at the posada).

  • Spend a very relaxing day at the posada’s lovely pool until dinnertime and then head out to one of the charming places described below.

TO EAT

  • Parador La Huella – a hot spot nestled in the sand dunes. It has great atmosphere teeming with beautiful people. Great beach restaurant with delicious food.  

  • El Chiringo - another fantastic beach restaurant halfway down Brava beach, from famous chef Francis Mallman.

  • Destino Sushi – a lovely little restaurant located in a residential neighborhood.

  • Solera – wine and tapas bar. I loved the vibe of this place!

  • Mostrador Santa Teresita – highly recommended but unfortunately already closed for the season.

2ND STOP - GARZON

Cruising north from Jose Ignacio on Route 10 brings you to a circular-shaped bridge across the water of Laguna Garzon. You will see kite surfers and windsurfers making their way around the lagoon. The farther up the coast you get, the more bohemian the country becomes. We however took a turn inland towards Garzon.

The village of Garzon was a thriving railroad stop around the turn of the 20th century, until the government decided to move the highway closer to the ocean and decommissioned the rail stop there. Consequently, the population got reduced to only about two hundred residents. Francis Mallmann, attracted to the sleepy little town, opened the Restaurante/Hotel Garzon in 2003, spurring a bit of a rebirth. A few art galleries opened in town as well as a small hotel – Casa Anna Garzon.

The restaurant itself is a pinnacle of rustic refinement and the food is incredibly simple and delicious. Best meat empanadas you will ever have in your life! A few guest rooms connected to the restaurant allow diners to spend the night and that’s what we did. Even though the price is steep it was a worthwhile experience.

We arrived in the town on a Sunday and it looked like a ghost town. We checked in at our room, grabbed lunch at Restaurante Garzon, since it was the only place open, and then got some bikes to go around town – probably about 12 blocks total! We also biked to the old train depot, a pretty cool building with Garzon’s iconic sign. We then got some rest before our dinner at the restaurant and we had the place to ourselves. And this is not a hyperbole! We were in a ghost town, at a ghost restaurant! And the only people around aside from the workers.

Note that we skipped a visit to Bodega Garzon, the country’s most well-known winery. Not because it did not look fantastic but because we had a limited amount of time and did not want to rush around.

3rd STOP: MONTEVIDEO

We had a very short stay in Montevideo, so we spent all our time in the Old City: walked around to appreciate all its historic buildings and through Mercado del Puerto which is full of parrilladas (traditional steakhouses – meat in this country is like a religion!). Don’t miss a stop for coffee at La Farmacia Café.

STAY: Fauna Montevideo – a very charming boutique hotel located on the main pedestrian strip of the Old City.

EAT: Jacinto or Mercado del Puerto for lunch; Montevideo al Sur – bar with live music and a nice vibe, a good spot for dinner and drinks.

France - 2021 Normandy | Loire Valley | Brittany

As our European adventure continues during this Pandemic, we drove from England to France via the Eurotunnel (Folkstone to Calais). It is quick and quite an interesting experience since your car goes inside a train that crosses the tunnel.

1st stop - Normandy coast (3 nights)

While Normandy is not a sexy destination in France like the Cote D’Azur or Provence, it has a feeling of nostalgia, deeply rooted history, and idyllic landscapes with rolling hills and timbered farmhouses. It’s full of bucolic charm.

HOME BASE: Honfleur – a former fortress town and fishing village, it still maintains much of its old-world charm, even though it is quite popular with tourists. Take a stroll around the Old Harbor (I did early in the morning with nobody around and it was magical) or lose yourself among the labyrinth of tiny streets lined with colorful timber-framed houses, so typical of Normandy.

 STAY: La Chaumiere - set in an authentic half-timbered house, in the outskirts of Honfleur

 EAT: l'Endroit and Sa Qua Na

TO DO:

1.     Monet Foundation in Giverny - this quaint village is quite famous for being the location of Monet’s house and garden. It’s now a museum that maintains the artist’s home and studio as if he were alive. Walk around the gardens and water lily pond with a Japanese footbridge and you will feel part of his famous paintings.

2.     D-Day Tour – we met our wonderful guide Ezzedine Hosni at the Memoriel of Caen and with him visited:

  • Omaha beach in the American sector - the site of the defining events of the Second World War;

  • la Pointe du Hoc where the American Rangers hiked up steep cliffs while the German battery above shot at them. You can still see where all the bombs were dropped but now covered with grasses;

  • American cemetery where more than 9000 American soldiers are buried. Extremely sad and beautiful at the same time;

  • German cemetery – so different and also moving when you realize that most of the soldiers buried there were just kids of 18 or 19 years of age;

  • Bayeux – the first town to be liberated by the Allies - see the cathedral and visit the Tapestry;

  • Pegasus Bridge where British gliders landed and captured this strategic bridge from the Germans. It’s unbelievable that gliders with no lights or engines were able to land next to this bridge in the dark of night with German soldiers all around it.

3.     Beuvron-en-Auge - medieval and inviting town comprised of all timber-framed houses and small cobbled lanes. It’s often cited as being one of the most beautiful villages in France, and you can easily see why. The town is also well known for its cider scene.

2nd Stop – Le Perche – Normandy inland (3 nights)

Parisians love Le Perche, a nature reserve in lower Normandy that’s a two-hour journey from Paris winding through rolling green fields and forests, small medieval villages and a huge concentration of antique dealers. It is famous for its apple orchards, not its vineyards.

HOME BASE: Maison Ceronne – this contemporary & sophisticated eight-room guesthouse built on the site of an old barn, is a fantastic base to visit the area. Just skip dinner there since the food was not good.

D’Une Ile – another very good option for lodging. A lot more rustic and country-like style hotel than Maison Ceronne. But the food is fantastic. You can have lunch or dinner there even if you are not a hotel guest.

 TO DO:

1.     Go for a bike ride along the country roads and visit some cider producers.

2.     Visit Villeray, a pretty village with mill stream, steeply stacked stone cottages and a spa hotel.

3.     Visit Mortagne-au-Perche, the market-town capital of the region; charming and not very touristy.

3rd stop Loire Valley (3 nights)

The Loire Valley has long captured many travelers’ attention. The image of a verdant flat landscape dotted with castles, charming villages and vineyards is what I had in mind. And it was all that! Cycling is a great way to explore the area with a well thought out trail system along the Loire River.

HOME BASE: Loire Valley Lodges – a modern retreat hidden in a private forest. A historic farmhouse is the hub of this hotel, with dining spaces, a lounge and pool, while the rooms are individual treehouses in the forest, all styled by a different artist or designer. Breakfast is delivered in a basket, which you hoist up to your terrace with a rope pulley. So lovely!

TO SEE:

Villandry Castle - even if gardens aren't your thing, those belonging to the château in this tiny village are well worth a visit. Go right when it opens so you beat the crowds and can walk around in peace. I would recommend this strategy for all the castles. Either first thing or right before closing.

Chenonceau Castle - indisputably the most beautiful and the most photographed of all the castles and also one of the most popular. We had tickets and drove to the castle but gave up when we saw the chaos. I don’t go on vacation to stand in line and fight the crowds!

Tours - the capital town of Loire Valley. Not the most charming town you will see in France, since the bar is set very high, but worth a walk around its cobbled streets of the Middle Ages with half-timbered houses.

Amboise - smaller and more charming than Tours, but quite touristy. There is also a castle here worth visiting.

On the drive to the next stop, a visit to Rochefort-en-Terre is highly recommended. It is a fairytale-perfect French hamlet. on a hilltop overlooking the Valley of Arz. Of course it’s a bit touristy but still worth a 1-2hrs of time walking around it.

Carnac is another stop famed for its Neolithic stones, the Carnac Stones. This is the world's largest and densest collection of Neolithic monuments, with almost 3000 stones that may date to as early as 4500 BC. They consist of single standing stones called menhirs and multi-cluster stones called dolmens. Their actual purpose still remains mysterious. The town of Carnac itself is divided into Carnac-Ville and Carnac-Plages (beaches), and charming if you have some extra time to check it out.

4th stop - southern Brittany (3 nights)

Brittany has a spectacular scenery of marshes, a jagged coastline, stunning sand beaches, and azure waves. It is filled with medieval villages where the Breton language is still proudly spoken, which is actually closer to Welsh than to French. Bretons are unusually warm (for France), maybe because Brittany has had to receive more than its share of sea travelers, going back to the Vikings. It is a walkers' paradise with more marked trails than any other region in France. The GR34 is a 2000 km trail that hugs Brittany's coastline from Mont St Michel to the Gulf du Morbihan, and offers magnificent coastal walking.

And sampling crepes is a must. Crepes are to Bretons what pasta is to Italians.

HOME BASE: Villa Tri Men - located in a mansion by the sea in the tiny village of Sainte Marine. Incredibly charming!

TO DO:

Take a walk on the beach from Sainte Marine to Ile-Tudy - a tiny fishing village of low houses generally built facing away from the sea or protected by walls and narrow lanes.

If you are in town during the Farmer’s Market day, that’s worth checking out.

Have dinner at Bistrot du Brac right by the hotel in the village’s tiny port. It’s a simple bistrot serving very fresh seafood. And if the little food-trailer is still located by the parking area on the beach, have the crepe. It’s all I wanted to eat since it is to date the best I have ever had. Beats any restaurant!

But if you are looking for a more refined dinner, the restaurant at Villa Tri Men is a good option.

5th Stop – Northern Brittany: 3 nights

HOME BASE: Ferme du Vent - facing the Mont Saint Michel bay, this Celtic farm was lovingly restored by the Roellinger family, at walking distance from its famous Château Richeux. It is rustic and luxurious at the same, with a spa with Celtic baths, sauna and hammam.

WHAT WE LOVED:

  • The bay view facing Mont Saint-Michel with vistas of the highest tides in Europe.

  • Spending an evening at Château Richeux for a drink at its terrace and then dinner at Le Coquillage, its 2 Michelin-starred restaurant.

  • Stay in for the night and enjoy dinner that will be brought to your room.

  • Take a hike along the trail that follows the coast - go as far as you want and turn around or go all the way to Cancale and take a taxi back.

VISIT NEARBY:

Mont Saint-Michel [Mont Saint-Michel is one of France's most visited landmarks, dedicated to the Mont St. Michel Archangel St. Michael. It's a breathtaking Gothic fortress-style island rising dramatically from the bay. The town down below is underwhelming and overly touristy, however the abbey and monastery are breathtaking. Book a timed visit in advance]

Dinan [Hanging on the side of a cliff, Dinan is one of the most famous and magical villages in Brittany. It's an impeccably preserved ancient city that escaped the bombing of WWII. Dinan is a walled village with a historic port, cobbled lanes, and a wealth of timber-framed houses everywhere]

Saint-Suliac [It's a charming tiny fishing village, located between Saint-Malo and Dinan. Its pretty granite houses, dating from the 14th and 15th centuries, are adorned with flowers, painted shutters, and fishing nets. There's not much to do besides enjoy the scenery]

Saint Malo [Saint-Malo is a beautiful walled town, thrust out into the sea and straight out of the history books. Though seriously damaged in WWII, Saint Malo was restored to perfection. Don’t miss a walk along the Atlantic beach under the towers of the city walls EAT: LE COMPTOIR BREIZH CAFÉ (creperie) or Otonali - Breton-style Japanese pub]

Cancale [Cancale is a coastal fishing village and the oyster capital of Brittany EAT: La Table Breizh - Chef Raphaël Fumio-Kudaka’s offshoot, located on the incredible Breizh Café’s first floor]

Istanbul - 2021

Istanbul is the only city in the world sprawling across two continents, linking Europe and Asia. To the east of the Bosphorus Strait lies the city’s Asian side and to the west the European side, which draws most visitors for its Sultanahmet neighborhood where the majority of Istanbul’s historic landmarks can be found. The city is massive though, with its population reaching over 15 million people, so traffic can be crazy. Because of its unique location, it is seen as a bridge between the east and west with incredible culture, history, amazing food, beautiful architecture and sights. It is one of the most enthralling cities we have ever visited!

STAY: Witt Istanbul Suites (a wonderful and stylish hotel in Cihangir, with incredibly spacious rooms, a living area and kitchenette, and sweeping views of Istanbul. It was the perfect base for our stay)

TO SEE/DO:

Sultanahmet District: a visit to Istanbul is incomplete without exploring the Old City, which gives you a glimpse into the heart of Istanbul’s history and some of its most magnificent architecture – all located within walking distance of the Sultanahmet Square. The majestic Hagia Sophia dominates the skyline of Sultanahmet, and is easily recognisable from its vast dome, colourful marble columns, Islamic art and Christian mosaics. Other must-sees include the Ottoman-era Topkapi Palace, a former residence of the Sultans, that was transformed into a museum; the Blue Mosque, renowned for its blue tiles and six minarets; and the Basilica Cistern, which is the largest surviving underground Byzantine cistern in Istanbul. The Süleymanye Mosque complex is also worth a visit, but a bit farther away in another district. For eating or shopping don’t miss the Grand Bazaar (one of the world’s biggest open-air commercial centers) and Egyptian Spice Bazaar. You can spend a whole day just in the Grand Bazaar!

Beyoglu District: explore Karakoy which was formerly one of the city’s most important ports, but left to deteriorate until it started to become a trendy area. Today, its maze-like streets offer a glimpse of the city’s history. You will find churches and synagogues blending seamlessly into the newer parts of Karakoy. Tophane is a little area that feels more like a village. It lies in the zone between Galata Tower in the Karakoy quarter and the now trendy & bohemian Cihangir neighborhood. Tophane is a very traditional and somewhat conservative Turkish neighborhood. Galata is most clearly identified by the historic Galata Tower, which overlooks the neighborhood’s old cobblestoned streets. The main street and others around the tower are full of tiny and interesting shops and cafés, but does feel pretty touristy.

Balat District: is one of the oldest districts and the best-hidden gems of Istanbul. Colorful, quiet sloping & narrow streets with old beautiful houses. It was once known as the Jewish quarter of the city.

OUR ITINERARY:

DAY 1:

With a guide we got to explore the Sultanahmet District and see all the mosques and other sites along the way such as the remains of the Roman Hippodrome.

DAY 2: Culinary Backstreets Bazaar Quarter Food Tour (5.5hrs)

This is an absolute MUST and our guide Gonca was a wealth of knowledge. Not just about food, but also about history, culture, traditions, etc. We fell in love with her!

Bazaar Quarter - a historic center of small craftsmen who still carry on their tradition in the atmospheric caravanserais - Ottoman-era trading posts — that dot this area. With all of the shopping, people rarely open their eyes to the culinary treasures of this area, which are well-protected by the merchants and craftsmen who dine here everyday. You will typically not eat at places that you would find on your own, but in more tucked away spots.

We started with a full breakfast (that is a very big thing in Turkey - my kinda of people :-), then freshly baked pide, a perfect kebab, a spread of seasonal vegetarian mezes and so much more. We had tea and Turkish coffee in out-of-the-way places, and a vast array of sweets. It’s more food than you can possibly imagine eating and needless to say that you will not be able to eat dinner.

DAY 3: Bosphorus Villages

Also with a guide we took a taxi to Besiktas to visit the fish market and stroll through this lively and colorfull neighbourhood. Then we hopped on a ferry to Üsküdar on the Asian side. This is a much more traditional & conservative area, and you will feel like you are in an Islamic country, which is not the case in so many other parts of Istanbul. We took a taxi to Kuzguncuk which is a very quaint neighborhood and becoming a trendy weekend spot. We really liked this area, very walkable and full of cafes and shops! We finished our tour in Cengelkoy before taking the ferry back to the European side of the Bosphorus.

DAY 4: Culinary Backstreets Two Markets, Two Continents Food Tour (5.5hrs)

Gonca was our guide again so we were ready for her high energy and love for Turkey.

This tour started in the Karakoy neighborhood before moving over to the Asian side’s Kadıkoy. The historic Perşembe Pazarı of Karakoy might look like a place to buy springs, hardware and paint supplies, but in the midst of all that we had a seasonal breakfast experience, followed by a stroll and traditional tea in a place you would never discover on your own. Then we hopped on a boat to Kadıköy and ate our way through that neighborhood’s market, which holds the highest concentration of traditional food shops and eateries in the city. We had one of the best cups of Turkish coffee in town before sampling regional specialties and treats in an infectious neighborhood vibe.

DAY 5: Today, we just walked around our neighborhood, Cihangir, and explored all the narrow streets, many great street cafes and wonderful clothes and food boutiques. We would have loved to experience a Hammam, but due to Covid restrictions, they were all closed.

Uganda | Tanzania | Mozambique - 2021

Here is a trip that got postponed from 2020 due to Covid 19 and that until a couple of months prior was still up in the air if it would happen in 2021, but it did, and I’m so glad. Even though it was a harder time to travel with constant Covid tests, masks and Health Forms, we had hotels to ourselves, a lot less people on game viewings and the wildlife was incredible thanks to less noise, less pollution and less disruptions overall. My husband and I got to share this trip with our friend MP.

ITINERARY

{UGANDA} Entebbe [1] > Kyaninga Lodge in Fort Portal [3] > Kyambura Gorge Lodge at Queen Elizabeth National Park [2] > Gorilla Forest Camp in Bwindi National Park [3] {TANZANIA} Legendary Lodge in Arusha [1] > Gibb’s Farm in Ngororo Conservation Area [2] Namiri Plains Camp in the Serengeti [2] Dunia Camp in the Serengeti [2] {MOZAMBIQUE} Azure Benquerra [4]

FLIGHTS

Istanbul > Entebbe > Bwindi > Entebbe > Dar es Salaam > Arusha > Lake Manyara > Serengeti > Kilimanjaro > Entebbe > Johannesburg > Vilankulos > Benguerra (helicopter) > Vilankulos (helicopter) >Johannesburg > Addis Ababa > Athens

15 flights total - 4 of them in small bush planes and 2 in a helicopter. That's a lot of take-offs and landings!

UGANDA

Uganda came into our radar at first because we wanted to see mountain gorillas. That was goal number 1 on this trip. But we got to appreciate this country for so much more. It is a very mountainous lush & green country, with beautiful tea farms and banana trees everywhere. Every household grows their own banana trees for their own consumption since this is a staple in their diet. The Ugandans are lovely people, always with big smiles on their faces, and the kids are as adorable as it gets. Wildlife is abundant and diverse.

DAY 1 - Drive to Kibale Forest National Park

This morning our lovely guide Robert picked us up at our hotel in Entebbe and we departed on a scenic drive to Fort Portal near Kibale Forest National Park, which takes about 7 hours on a mix of paved and dirt roads. The park boasts the largest concentration of chimpanzees in Africa.

STAY: Kyaninga Lodge which is set against a stunning backdrop of Lake Kyaninga and the Mountains of the Moon beyond. The lodge’s cottages & main facilities are all built on wooden platforms along a mountain ridge. Be prepared to climb a LOT of stairs. This was our favorite lodge in Uganda, and even though it took about 1.5hrs to get to Kibale Forest, I would stay here again in a heartbeat.

DAYS 2 & 3 - In both mornings we went tracking for chimpanzees in the Kibale Forest National Park, which hosts a population of more than 1,000 chimpanzees. Since 1991, one 80-strong community has been habituated in Kanyanchu, allowing us to visit them pretty up close. They are as fun as you would expect them to be! One of these afternoons we hiked around Lake Kyaninga from the Lodge and it was stunning.

DAY 4 - This morning we set out on another scenic drive to Queen Elizabeth National Park.

STAY: Kyambura Gorge Lodge which is set on the Eastern edge of Queen Elizabeth National Park with beautiful views of the park. It was built using environmentally friendly local materials by a community workshop.

The game viewing at Queen Elizabeth National Park is quite good, with Cape Buffalos, Warthogs, Elephants, Horned Ugandan Kobs, Topis, Waterbucks, Lions, Hippos and many birds, among them the African Fish Eagle, Pelicans, Kingfisher and Grey Crowned Crane. But one big difference between this game drive in a National Park versus the ones we did on our previous trip to Namibia and Botswana in private reserves, is that there were a lot more cars approaching a viewing, and you had to stay on the main roads and could not get off-road to get closer to an animal. We had gotten spoiled so this was a bit disappointing. We also had to drive for about 1hr on a major road that crosses the park, before getting off to smaller dirt roads. In Namibia and Botswana, we were in a safari from the minute we left the lodge.

DAY 5 - Today we got to take a private boat cruise on the Kazinga Channel, filled with hippos, buffalos, elephants and tons of birds. This was the highlight of Queen Elizabeth National Park! Since we were on a boat, we could get quite close to a large number of elephants bathing in the channel and hanging out side-by-side with hippos and buffalos. It was incredible!

DAY 6 - We departed on another scenic 4-5hr drive to Bwindi in our search for mountain gorillas. It was quite a drive with patches of dirt roads that give you quite the “African massage” as they like to say. We stop along the way to see if we found the tree-climbing lions, but we were not lucky.

Uganda has the highest population of mountain gorillas in the world and they can’t be found anywhere else on earth but in the Virunga Mountains shared by Uganda, Rwanda, and the Democratic Republic of Congo. These gorillas inhabit two of Uganda’s national parks: Mgahinga National Park and Bwindi Impenetrable Forest National Park.

STAY: Gorilla Forest Camp is designed with tents that sit on raised wooden platforms that blend into the side of a forested mountain. Very comfortable and relaxing with a glamping vibe.

DAYS 7 & 8: Both days were dedicated to gorilla tracking and were really exciting and challenging. The Bwindi mountain gorillas are part of a worldwide population of about 1060. The latest count showed 459 gorillas in Bwindi and 604 in the other forests, with a total of 50 families. 21 of these families have been habituated, meaning they tolerate humans for about 1-hr a day, and can be visited. We got to visit the Mubare Group (9 gorillas total: one silverback, 4 females & 4 infants) and the Habinyanja Group (12 gorillas total: 1 silverback, 2 black backs + females and young ones). Trackers leave early in the morning to locate the different groups, and then once you are assigned your group, you get to start your trek with a guide, a ranger and porters who can help you up and down very steep hills. The first trek, even though it was steep, it was on a relatively well marked trail (about 5hrs RT). The moment we encountered the gorillas so close by was pure magic and one of those unforgettable moments in life! The infants are so curious, and approached us with no fear. Adorable does not even start to describe them! The silverback was comfortable in our presence, as were the females, and they just cared to eat. The second trek was extremely steep through the forest with no marked trails. A much harder hike and viewing (also about 5hrs RT). The silverback and black backs did not want to be in our presence and kept hiding. A pregnant female, however, was very comfortable and posed the entire time with her young sons. The beauty of booking two days of gorilla trekking is that we got to experience different families at different settings.

DAY 9: This was a long day of travel. We departed early for a 3hr drive to an airstrip and from there flew to Entebbe, then on our way to Tanzania.

TANZANIA

DAY 10: We took a charter flight from Arusha to Lake Manyara and then on a 1-hr drive to Gibb’s Farm. This was an incredible spot, and another highlight of our trip. We had a Masai Mara take us around the farm this afternoon and teach us about all the medicinal plants that are heavily used in their diets, and so much more.

STAY: Gibb's Farm is an oasis of green beauty in the midst of the often parched and dusty landscape of the outer slopes of the Ngorongoro Crater. German settlers built the old colonial farmhouse at Gibb’s Farm in the early part of the twentieth century and to this day, it still has the character of a well-kept private home. Today you set out on a guided Crater Rim Walk.you find expansive views of the surrounding farmland. At your back are the forested slopes teeming with wildlife, including elephant and leopard.

DAY 11: Today we set on a guided tour through the forest to the Ngorogoro Crater Rim and we were not prepared for what we encountered. Eight hours of hiking through thick, wet and misty forest, not always with a marked trail or very maintained pathway. Our guide had a machete and worked for hours opening a path for us, while we were on high alert for elephants who roam this forest. We finally arrived all wet and muddy to the rim of the Crater and it was completely foggy and we could not see anything 😊 Oh well! That’s just part of being in nature, you can control the outcome!

DAY 12: This is another travel day with a charter flight to the Serengeti. Daniel, our lovely guide for the next 6 days met us at the strip and was game drive all the way to our next lodge.

STAY: Namiri Plains Camp is in the eastern corner of the Serengeti, where the southern short grass plains meet acacia woodland. For 20 years, the grasslands of the Eastern Serengeti were closed to tourists to allow the cheetah population to replenish itself and in 2014, the region reopened and today is big-cat territory, where cheetah roam the area in pursuit of prey, and lion and leopard hunt undisturbed. Each room is in a very architecturally gorgeous & luxurious tent, with a bath tub on a terrace overlooking the savannah.

DAY 13: This morning we rose early to scout for game from our vehicle, joining wildlife in their prime hunting hours. After a siesta during the hottest time of day, we ventured out again as animals take their first stretches in preparation for their evening meal. We had incredible sightings but the highlight for me was a mother cheetah with three 1-month old babies who we had to ourselves for at least 1-hr. that was worth going all the way to Tanzania!

DAY 14: We had an unexpected surprise this morning that made us get up at 4am and drive for almost 2hrs in the dark so we could watch the sunrise over the Serengeti in a hot air balloon. WOW, what a treat!! From there our game drive took us to Dunia Camp, our next lodge.

STAY: Dunia Camp has an exceptional location in a secluded valley of the Serengeti. It has a much more green and lush surrounding than Namiri Plains Camp and it felt like we were in a different park. The rooms are in tents that look more like you would expect from a glamping tent, but still very comfortable. We slept or better tried to sleep, listening to lions roar outside as if they were just outside the canvas wall of our tent.

DAY 15: Another typical day on a safari trip: wake up super early and leave on a game drive. Not 30 minutes into a very peaceful drive, without seeing another car, Michael spotted a rhino at a distance and our guide immediatley turned off the car. We stayed very quiet as he approched us for about 10 minutes without seeing us since rhinos don’t have good eye sight. These are very elusive animals who take off the minute they sense anybody approching and so are very difficult to see. That is all to say that 10 minutes observing him, felt like an eternity and we were incredibly lukcy. Our guide had not seen one in about 2 years and he was literally emotional. We could have turned around and gone back to the lodge since it does not get better than this, but we continued on to another spectacular day full of lions, giraffes, elephants, wildebeests & zebras (massive numbers of those as part of the tail end of the Great Migration), not to mention that vast array of beautiful birds.

DAY 16: After breakfast at camp we departed on a flight to Kilimanjaro, from there to Entebbe, and onward to Johannesburg, where we had to spend the night before flying to Mozambique the next morning This was an extremely long travel day, but required in order to get from one remote location to another. But now all I can recall are the magnificent places I visited and days like this just dissipate away.

STAY: Intercontinental Hotel at the Johannesburg Airport was unexpectatedly a very nice spot for a layover.

MOZAMBIQUE

DAY 17: A short flight from Johannesburg took us to Vilankulos, and as we got there a helicopter whisked us away on a short flight over paradise to the island of Benguerra, our home for the next 4 nights.

STAY: Azura Benguerra, with just 20 villas nestled along one of the last undiscovered stretches of beach in the world, offered us pure relaxation!

DAY 18, 19 & 20: Our days comprised of breakfast, lunch and dinner on the sand of the beach, right by the water & illuminated by candles; walks on almost deserted beaches except for locals fishing, which is one of the only activities besides tourism that employs the population of this island; boat trips to see other islands and go snorkeling on one of the richests reefs I have ever seen; massages & sundowner coacktails. Way to end another fantastic adventure in Africa! It’s impossible not to fall in love with this continent.

Pacific Northwest Road Trip - 2020

After months of being home due to Covid, my husband and decided to take a break from Zoom and go on a road trip. We had time set aside to be in Norway in September, but since that was no longer happening, we took that time to drive up the coast of Oregon and Washington, all the way to the San Juan Islands. And then drive down inland. Covid was going to limit our experience and we were prepared for that. What we were not prepared for were the wildfires that hit Oregon and Washington during our trip. And mind you that we had been living in California with wildfires for over a month and could not wait to get away and breathe some fresh air!! Covid & wildfires, a perfect storm, but we were still able to have a good time.

This is our itinerary:

DAY 1:

Leave San Francisco and drive to Gold Beach, OR. About 8hrs drive. Take a small detour along the way to drive along the Avenue of the Giants. It’s a scenic highway parallel to Hwy 101, that runs through Humboldt Redwood State Park, which has the largest remaining stand of virgin redwoods in the world. It runs from exit 645 to exit 672 and takes about 25 minutes without stops. But there are plenty of stops along way where you can walk into redwood groves and admire up close this incredibly majestic trees. Note that Hwy 101 gets really beautiful after Eureka all the way to Gold Beach. 

STAY TuTuTun Lodge [rustic chic lodge at the edge of the Rogue River, a really beautiful setting] 

EAT TuTuTun Lodge [very nice restaurant] Barnacle Bistro [decent food and a good option if you want to go into town]

DAY 2:

Drive to Yachats – about 3hrs without stops, but expect to take a whole day since there are plenty of worthwhile stops along the way.

Visit Cape Blanco Lighthouse in Port Orford, considered the westernmost point in Oregon. 

Continue on towards Bandon and stop at the Face Rock Scenic Viewpoint that affords some beautiful views of the beaches on either side of the viewpoint and its collection of isolated rock towers in a variety of shapes and forms, spread along the beach and shore. If you have the time take a walk on the beach to get a different vantage point of the rock formations and to see some caves and tidepools in the area. 

Another viewpoint just up north, a few minutes away, is Coquille Point. Another beautiful view of the beach and more rock formations that are so prevalent on the Oregon Coast. 

From there the next stop is the Coquille Lighthouse. It’s not a very big lighthouse but very quaint with tall grasses surrounding it. Make sure to walk pass the lighthouse towards the beach and onto the pier that separates the Coquille River from the Pacific Ocean. You’ll get some nice views of the lighthouse and surrounding area. 

Head in the direction of Coos Bay and explore the Cape Arago State Park. There are some nice coves and lovely trails along the coast. 

Continue on to Florence. One of the few charming towns along the Southern/Central Oregon Coast. Although a bit touristy, its historic downtown area is charming. 

Haceta Head Lighthouse was our next stop. It is supposedly the brightest light on the Oregon coast and the most photographed. A short but steep trail takes you to the base of the lighthouse.  Make the effort uphill, it’s beautiful.

Onwards to Yachats through the Cape Perpetua Scenic Area. 

STAY Overleaf Lodge & Spa [the oceanfront setting of the hotel is great, but the hotel itself is pretty much a Holiday Inn with no sense of place or style. Make sure to walk north along the trail that runs right in front of the hotel and explore all the coves and tide pools along the way]

EAT Yachats Brewing [popular casual eatery with craft beers] Ona Restaurant [more upscale restaurant] Luna Sea Fish House [good seafood shack]

DAY 3:

Our destination today is Arch Cape, another 3hrs drive with no stops. Plan again for a whole day of driving and stopping. 

Our first stop was going to be the Yaquina Head Lighthouse – Oregon’s tallest lighthouse and still operating – but given the fact that it was Labor Day holiday and jammed packed with people with the parking lot absolutely full, we continued on without seeing the lighthouse. 

Another worthwhile quick stop is at the Rocky Creek State Scenic Viewpoint. After you park, walk north on a pathway that will take you to a viewpoint of Whale Cove. 

Jacobsen Salt Co on Netarts Bay was a stop on our list but was closed due to Covid. It offers tastings of the famous Oregon salt.

Another stop on the way was Kelly’s Brighton Marina in Rockaway Beach for fresh seafood. Again, since it was the Labor Day holiday, the places was mobbed with people and we kept on driving without lunch!

STAY Ocean Point Inn [a charming 3-room inn right on the beach with a wonderful breakfast included every morning. Highly recommend a few nights here]

EAT There are no restaurants in Arch Cape, which is actually a blessing since it maintains the beach more protected and less touristy. Drive 15 minutes north to Cannon Beach, a charming town, with a New England feel to it, full of restaurants and shops. Ecola Seafoods Restaurant & Market [very laid-back diner serving fresh wild-caught specialties] Pelican Brewing [hip brewpub serving gourmet bar food]

DAY 4:

We spent the day at Arch Cape. A walk along the beach, in particular in low tide around the Southern tip is a must. Beautiful rock formations, with some fully covered in mussels & incredible tidepools full of wildlife. Ecola State Park in Cannon Beach is also a must. It is perched dramatically on the edge of Tillamook Head with old growth rainforest and famous views, overlooking numerous rock formations. There are plenty of hiking trails and you can’t go wrong with any of them. 

DAY 5:

Drive about 2hrs to Astoria which has gone from a trading post to lumber town to cannery center to, most recently, a refuge for Northwest’s creative class escaping pricier zip codes in Seattle and Portland. 

STAY Cannery Pier Hotel [a cannery turned boutique hotel that sits on pilings over the Columbia river almost under the Astoria-Megler Bridge – a 4.1-mile long steel cantilever bridge that connects Oregon to Washington. Great photo opportunities from the hotel and maybe even from your room if it’s facing the bridge]

EAT Fort George Brewery & Public House [vibrant brewpub is a very spacious warehouse] Josephson’s Smokehouse [seafood shop under Highway 101 that’s been smoking and selling fish for the last 96 years]

TO DO Cathedral Tree & Astoria Column Hike [a short hiking trail through Astoria's hillside urban forest that departs from Irving Street at about 29th Street, and goes for about a 1/2 mile to the giant Sitka spruce known as the 'Cathedral Tree'. From there continue through a well preserved coastal forest to the top of Coxcomb Hill, where the Astoria Column is located, and  enjoy the 360 degree panoramic views of the area] River Walk & Downtown [walk along the river and train tracks to observe the transformation of this town where old cannery warehouses are being converted to breweries, bars and restaurants, shops, etc. Also explore the historic downtown area] 

DAYS 6 & 7:

Drive about 4hrs to Port Towsend and take a ferry to Whidbey Island. I highly recommend making ferry reservations ahead of time (this is a rule for all ferries in the area). And allow some time to visit the well preserved & charming historic downtown area in Port Towsend and maybe grab some lunch before hopping on the ferry. 

Whidbey is a fairly narrow but very long, making it the largest island in Washington.

STAY Captain Whidbey [an updated hip & charming historic inn located on the shores of Penn Cove not far from Coupeville] Inn at Langley [most upscale lodging option on the island]

EAT Captain Whidbey [the inn has a lovely restaurant. We were there during Covid and a reduced menu was being served on the deck outside. It was a great setting & pretty good food] Oystercatcher [a lovely little restaurant in Coupeville serving deliciously fresh seafood] Inn at Langley [renowned restaurant offering a very refined multicourse dinner] Whidbey Pies Cafe [nestled in a beautiful red farm building, this bakery specializes in a wide variety of pies]

TO DO Hike the Lighthouse Point & Lottie Point via Rosario Trailhead [a 4.7 mile loop along rugged cliffs with beautiful views of the water and the high bridge across the famous Deception Pass. Not to be missed!] Ebey’s Landing [a 554-acre reserve offering scenic coastal trails, with sweeping views of the Olympic Peninsula] Langley [charming town on the south end of the island worth exploring]

DAY 8:

Drive about 2hrs north to Gooseberry Point, just west of Bellingham, to take a ferry to Lummi Island. It’s a tiny island and home to a unique dining destination called the Willows Inn. Not only you can have a fabulous dinner at this very unassuming but super charming inn, you can also spend the night there. Advanced reservations are a must. You can also rent a house on the island and enjoy dinner at the Inn, but if you are not their guest, you will miss an incredible breakfast. Not to be a show-off, but I have eaten at some very revered restaurants around the world, and this is up there with my favorites. 

DAY 9:

If you look at the map, Lummi Island is quite close to Orcas Island, one of the San Juan Islands, but no ferries connect them. So we had to drive back toward Whidbey Island and go to Anacortes where we took the ferry to Orcas. This is a horseshoe-shaped island with the main town of Eastsound placed in the middle overlooking a fjord.

Due to the fires ravaging Oregon and Washington, our visit to the San Juan Islands in the next few days was covered in smoke with very little visibility. Hence the very limited photography of the islands.

STAY Overlook Inn [old family-run inn in Eastsound with waterfront views. The Water’s Edge Rooms are in a new, modern building right on the water’s edge of Fishing Bay, as the name states]

EAT Hogstone’s Wood Oven [very relaxed farmer-owned restaurant offering delicious fresh salads/vegetables, seafood, as well as their specialty pizzas] Aelder [same owner as Hogstone if you want a fine dining experience] The Barnacle [charming bar with craft cocktails & boards of charcuterie & cheese]

TO DO Moran State Park [hike to Mount Constitution - over 2000 feet of elevation gain - the highest point in the San Juan Islands with the best panoramic view from the top of the watchtower. If you’re not up for a challenge, you can hike The Little Summit Trail instead or just drive all the way to the top and then walk the short distance to the watchtower] Kayaking [Shearwater Kayak Tours is the place to get a guided tour] Orcas Island Winery [boutique family-run vineyard & winery. The tasting room & shop are inside a nice modern farmhouse with picnic tables on the surrounding grounds]

DAY 10:

Take a ferry to San Juan, that has the largest population in the archipelago. But it’s main town Friday Harbor, is still a relatively sleepy town, easily walkable and with no chains which maintains its character. On the opposite side of the island is Roche Harbor, a beautiful historic seaside resort with a small village feel.

STAY Friday Harbor House [boutique hotel set atop a bluff with beautiful views over the harbor] Roche Harbor [offers a wide variety of lodging options: luxurious modern homes, a historic hotel and quaint cottages] Saltwater Farm [only five guest houses beautifully designed with a blend of modern & rustic. Very private & tucked away. Wish we could have stayed here, but they host a lot of weddings & events, and the guesthouses were not available during our stay]

EAT Duck Soup [hidden in a forested plot away from Friday Harbor, this very charming restaurant serves dishes with foraged ingredients from the island] Friday Harbor House [good option for dinner or drinks, and outside seating is the way to go. My favorite thing was to watch the ferries come and go from this spot] The Market Chef [a gourmet deli that is perfect for lunch or to get food for a picnic] Bakery San Juan [artisan breads, gourmet pizzas and lovely pastries]

TO DO Rent a Bike [cycling around the island is safe & a great way to explore. We had to cancel our rental because of the air quality and drove around instead. But we could tell that cycling would have been a wonderful way to see the island!] San Juan Island Distillery and Westcott Bay Cider [open only on Saturdays, these destinations have to be seeked out since they are both tucked away among apple orchards. San Juan Island Distillery makes different gins, a variety of liqueurs and an apple brandy. Westcott Bay Cider makes traditional hard ciders from their Washington cider apple varieties grown in their orchard on the island. Like Orcas Island, San Juan Island has a long history of being a major fruit producer for Puget Sound] Pelindaba Lavender Farm [I had never been to a lavender farm and what a treat to stroll among fields of lavender. Incredibly beautiful!] San Juan Vineyard [a quaint place to taste some locally produced wines]

DAY 11

We made our way to Seattle after taking the ferry to Anacortes and driving for a couple of hours. We cut short our stay in Seattle due to the horrible air quality so I will just skip it. All we did was eat dinner, sleep and take off the next morning.

DAY 12

Our next destination was McMinniville in the Willamette Valley, about 45 minutes south of Portland. It is a wine producing area best known for its excellent Pinot Noirs. Again due to the terrible air quality, we were mostly inside and did not explore much of the area. We also cut our stay short to only one night.

STAY Atticus Hotel [a high-end boutique hotel in the historic downtown of McMinniville, centrally located in the Oregon Wine Country]

EAT Red Hills Kitchen [inside the Atticus Hotel, this is a lovely options for dinner]

TO DO Walk around the Historic Downtown; Granary District [collection of warehouses and silos just outside downtown that have been converted into multiple wineries. It’s a nod to McMinniville’s rich agricultural history. There is also a marketplace where you can grab coffee, a beer or browse fresh produce]

DAY 13

We continued on south to Ashland. This stop was also shortened since at this point we just wanted to get home where the air had improved and was much better than in the Pacific Northwest. The suggestions below are extremely limited, and there’s a lot more to experience in town.

STAY The Peerless Hotel [historic hotel with individually decorated rooms full of antiques. Somewhat charming but cluttered with knick-knacks. Makes me want to run, fast! But my husband likes it]

EAT Alchemy [this place came highly recommended but our reservation was cancelled last-minute since most of their staff had been affected by the fires]

DAY 14

Drive about 6hrs straight back to San Francisco, where we can breathe again!