URUGUAY
Uruguay is a tiny country but incredibly progressive. Weed is legal. Abortions are easily accessible. Gay marriage, universal health care, free education-including college. And about 98% of its energy is produced from renewables. Montevideo is the country's only major city and it contains half the country's population, which is still not a whole lot – about 1.4 million.
It’s a pretty chill and peaceful country, probably a lot to do with its landscape: soft with slightly undulating meadows and no great natural landmarks. It’s unassuming but filled with style and beautiful people. There is a magical vibe to it!
1st STOP – JOSE IGNACIO
We flew to Montevideo and drove from there to Jose Ignacio (depending on where you are flying from you can fly directly to Punta del Este which would be closer).
Uruguay’s Ruta Nacional 10 begins in the capital city of Montevideo, then ambles through suburbs and hills before making its way to the coast, where it connects Punta del Estate with a dozen or so little beach towns along its way. While Punta del Este is a favorite vacation spot of well-heeled Argentines and Brazilians, who party until dawn in the clubs and recover on the beach all day, that is a scene that does not appeal at all. We chose the more laid-back Jose Ignacio instead, a small beach community 45 minutes farther up the coast.
On the way to Jose Ignacio we drove through La Barra, Bikini Beach, Manantiales with lots of shops and restaurants along the way. We stopped at La Linda Bakery for a snack. A fantastic setting with scrumptious baked goods.
Other potential stops along the way:
Pablo Atchugarry Foundation - Pablo Atchugarry is a famous Uruguayan sculptor who works mainly with marble and metal. Beautiful indoor & outdoor exhibits.
Los Dedos sculpture – in Playa Brava, which has a giant buried hand and exposed fingertips on display.
We finally got to our destination. For decades the fishing village of Jose Ignacio was a well-kept secret. It was prized for its simplicity: low-rise architecture, unspoiled beaches and a quirky artistic community. Even though it has been “discovered”, it still retains its charm. Maybe if you have known the Jose Ignacio of the past you would be disappointed with how its developed, but for us its sandy streets, avant-garde designer houses half-hidden behind modest fishing shacks, and the grassy central plaza still make it an idyllic spot.
It can, however, get very busy and crowded during the Summer. To avoid that we chose mid-March, considered low season, and while some places were already closed for the season, the peace and quiet is worth the trade-off!
STAY: Posada Ayana
A stone’s throw from José Ignacio’s La Mansa beach, this posada was built by Austrian art collectors Robert and Edda Kofler. It is thoughtfully designed and decorated with rare art and vintage furniture sourced locally and restored. The Koflers also commissioned the legendary American Light and Space artist James Turrell to create a Skyspace installation right next to the posada. It is a large pyramid-shaped structure called Ta Khut, or “The Light” in early Egyptian, with its exterior concealed by grass and plants and its apex punctuated by a white sphere, crafted using some 42 tons of small marble bricks. You can visit it at sunrise or sunset to experience its magic, which is hard to describe and must be felt.
TO DO
The Lighthouse – climb the 121 steps to get a wonderful view of Jose Ignacio.
Bookshop & Café Rizoma – stunning architecture and curated collection of books.
Bike around town and check out all its charming boutiques (bikes are provided at the posada).
Spend a very relaxing day at the posada’s lovely pool until dinnertime and then head out to one of the charming places described below.
TO EAT
Parador La Huella – a hot spot nestled in the sand dunes. It has great atmosphere teeming with beautiful people. Great beach restaurant with delicious food.
El Chiringo - another fantastic beach restaurant halfway down Brava beach, from famous chef Francis Mallman.
Destino Sushi – a lovely little restaurant located in a residential neighborhood.
Solera – wine and tapas bar. I loved the vibe of this place!
Mostrador Santa Teresita – highly recommended but unfortunately already closed for the season.
2ND STOP - GARZON
Cruising north from Jose Ignacio on Route 10 brings you to a circular-shaped bridge across the water of Laguna Garzon. You will see kite surfers and windsurfers making their way around the lagoon. The farther up the coast you get, the more bohemian the country becomes. We however took a turn inland towards Garzon.
The village of Garzon was a thriving railroad stop around the turn of the 20th century, until the government decided to move the highway closer to the ocean and decommissioned the rail stop there. Consequently, the population got reduced to only about two hundred residents. Francis Mallmann, attracted to the sleepy little town, opened the Restaurante/Hotel Garzon in 2003, spurring a bit of a rebirth. A few art galleries opened in town as well as a small hotel – Casa Anna Garzon.
The restaurant itself is a pinnacle of rustic refinement and the food is incredibly simple and delicious. Best meat empanadas you will ever have in your life! A few guest rooms connected to the restaurant allow diners to spend the night and that’s what we did. Even though the price is steep it was a worthwhile experience.
We arrived in the town on a Sunday and it looked like a ghost town. We checked in at our room, grabbed lunch at Restaurante Garzon, since it was the only place open, and then got some bikes to go around town – probably about 12 blocks total! We also biked to the old train depot, a pretty cool building with Garzon’s iconic sign. We then got some rest before our dinner at the restaurant and we had the place to ourselves. And this is not a hyperbole! We were in a ghost town, at a ghost restaurant! And the only people around aside from the workers.
Note that we skipped a visit to Bodega Garzon, the country’s most well-known winery. Not because it did not look fantastic but because we had a limited amount of time and did not want to rush around.
3rd STOP: MONTEVIDEO
We had a very short stay in Montevideo, so we spent all our time in the Old City: walked around to appreciate all its historic buildings and through Mercado del Puerto which is full of parrilladas (traditional steakhouses – meat in this country is like a religion!). Don’t miss a stop for coffee at La Farmacia Café.
STAY: Fauna Montevideo – a very charming boutique hotel located on the main pedestrian strip of the Old City.
EAT: Jacinto or Mercado del Puerto for lunch; Montevideo al Sur – bar with live music and a nice vibe, a good spot for dinner and drinks.
