Sifnos, Greece - 2021

After our Africa trip we made our way to Greece in order to “quarantine” before being allowed into the UK. We chose Sifnos island in the Cyclades that is only a 3hr ferry from Athens.

It is considered a gastronomic island with an extensive network of hiking trails - more than 100km of trails. Two of my favorite things, so it was a no-brainer to choose this island instead of so many other more popular options. It is also a relatively quiet island with not a lot of tourists like Mykonos or Santorini, but still with plenty to do and see.

Its steep hillsides have been tamed by agricultural terraces, creating giant steps on the landscape. Low stone walls divide plots planted with olive, fig and almond trees in the midst of thyme bushes with tiny purple flowers.

You will need a car to explore the island or a scooter which is what we got.

 

STAY: Verina Astra is perched on the top of a hill overlooking the Aegean Sea, and a blue dome monastery dangling above an emerald cove. It does not get better than this! It has a very good restaurant that attracts people from all over the island. The suites are dreamy with terraces also overlooking the Sea. It’s hard to leave.

Hiking down to the cove from the hotel is a MUST. I still dream about swimming there again.

 

SEE/EAT/DO:

Artemonas: just a 5min drive from the hotel, this is probably the prettiest village in Sifnos. Dusk is a wonderful time to explore its narrow cobbled pedestrian-only alleys. It’s a bit quieter and less touristic than its neighbor Appolonia.

Apollonia: is the capital of the island, built on three hillsides in the heart of Sifnos. At first it does not appear that it has much to offer, but if you get off the main roads into the pedestrian-only alleys, you will find plenty of shops and restaurants. Even if a bit touristy it still has maintained some of its charm.

Platis Gialos: a long yet narrow strip of sandy beach. Unless you like sunbathing, the main reason to go to Platis Gialos is to eat at Omega 3. It’s a very small unassuming restaurant serving delicious seafood. You might come across celebrities coming to Sifnos just to eat there.

Monastery of Panagia Chrissopigi: built on a rocky peninsula connected to the island via a bridge, this is a beautiful monastery to be visited and a good area to go for a lovely swim.

Atsonios pottery workshop in Vathi, by Tsopos beach: one of the oldest pottery workshops on the island - opened in 1870 - the workshop can be visited if you want to see their work.

Kastro Village: picturesque white fortress-like village with narrow alleys that wind through arches. Don’t miss the The Church of the Seven Martyrs beneath the walled village during your exploration. But the star of the show for us in Kastro is Cantina, a fantastic restaurant from the same chef as Omega 3. It is located on a cove, in a very old traditional building that was kept in its current state when converted to this restaurant. The food and ambiance are fantastic and probably one of our favorite restaurants ever.  

Hiking: there are many hiking trails all over the island. You can Google hiking in Sifnos and many websites will pop up with information on the different trails and maps. I hiked from the hotel towards Kastro and them from there to Appolonia where I got picked up. It was wonderful and the trails are well-marked.

Baja California Sur - 2018 (updated in 2020)

Todos Santos

Todos Santos is a charming town with cobblestone streets lined with tiny artisan shops and refurbished haciendas. In 2006, the Mexican government designated Todos Santos a Pueblo Mágico—one of just 100 or so small towns honored for its natural beauty, cultural riches, or historical relevance. It also has beautiful beaches however the Pacific Ocean doesn’t mess around with dramatic crashes of waves hitting the sand. Swimming is a bit tricky, but on a few beaches, the surfing is quite good. And then there are the whales. Todos Santos and the areas around it are known for great whale watching, with humpback whales and grays that breed there in winter before making the long swim back to the north. You don’t have to stand on the beach too long between October-March to spot whales on the horizon.

The drive to Todos Santos from Cabo is about 1hr long on a pretty new highway that cuts through the desert between the Sierra de La Laguna mountain range and the ocean. You will be surrounded with cardon cactus on both sides and that for me is the “character” of this area.

STAY Hotel San Cristobal [overlooking the white sand beach on the coast of Todos Santos, this hotel from famed Texas hotelier Liz Lambert, has a minimal and wonderful beachy vibe. Her Bunkhouse group is known for photogenic boutique hotels in Austin and Marfa and this property honors that with its white buildings that create a backdrop for colorful tiles and textiles, and a variety of cacti, all surrounded by a woodsy smoke of copal incense. Note that it is a 10 to 15-minute drive to downtown Todos Santos from San Cristobal] Todos Santos Inn [this is a classic hotel in downtown Todos Santos with an old-school charm. Great restaurant & bar onsite] Posada La Poza [walking distance from the beach in Todos Santos, this is a charming spot with good food. Many of my friends have stayed there and really like it]

EAT Jazamango [creative Mexican food in a very cool space] La Esquina [good option for breakfast and lunch] Taller 17 [tiny coffee shop with delicious pastries. Don’t miss the brownie!] Green Room [somewhat hidden on the beach about 20 minutes north of Todos Santos, this a wonderful spot for drinks at sunset. Tables are literally on the sand of the beach, and you cannot beat that. They also serve decent tostadas, but that’s not why you go there] La Morena [good for live music and the food is okay] Doce Cuarenta [super hip coffee shop; you’d think you just arrived in Mexico City] DUM [offers Mediterranean cuisine in a lush garden setting] Todos Santos Inn [elaborate craft cocktails at the old-school bar; dinner served in a charming courtyard] Noah Sushi [set on the rooftop of a 3-story building, it serves pretty decent sushi]

TO DO Hiking [Right behind Hotel San Cristobal, at an abandoned pineapple cannery building, there is a trail uphill that will bring you to a beautiful cove and offer great views of the area. About 2 hrs out and back. Follow the signs to the Old Port]


Pescadero

The town of Pescadero itself is on the eastern side of the highway 19 and is sprawled around a few hills hidden from the highway. On the west side of the highway are fields and fields of basil, peppers, palm trees and cacti, sprinkled with houses. The beach is really beautiful but also not very swimmable. This is my favorite area with a mix of beach & farm vibe.

EAT Hierbabuena [field-to-fork with delicious salads and veggies straight from their garden; laid-back & wonderful atmosphere] Pura Playa [on the beach at the San Pedrito end where you find the surfers, this is a bar on the beach. While the drinks & food are not memorable, the setting is!]

TO DO Horseback Riding [Noelle & Amber are Pescadero residents and horse lovers. They take 2 people at a time for a ride along the beach and farmlands of Pescadero, with a stop for a sundowner drink at Pura Playa; very nice way to see Pescadero]


Cerritos

Just south of Pescadero is Los Cerritos area. While I’m not a big fan of this area, it is very popular because it has a swimmable beach, which is rare along this Baja stretch of Pacific Ocean. And it does have some good places to eat.

EAT Barracuda [best shrimp tacos you will ever find and great amazing drinks. Top 3 favorite spots!] Freesouls [a good spot for food/drinks with views of the beach and a plunge pool if you’re into that] Art & Beer [right on the highway, this places is a trip. I won’t describe it since you must go and experience it. Make sure to order a margarita]

San José del Cabo

While I’m not a big fan of Cabo and it’s surroundings - feels like Las Vegas on the beach - there are a few spots worth checking. San José del Cabo is East of Cabo San Lucas and while still quite developed it’s more tastefully done. So let’s focus on that area.

EAT/DRINK Flora Farms [it is a working farm in the foothills of the Sierra de la Laguna, that has a very charming and somewhat swanky restaurant, shops & a spa. A bit of a trek on dirt roads to get there, but worth the effort. A cooking class there is a really fun thing to do. You get to tour the farm, cook using all the vegetables grown at the farm as well as meats from animals raised there, and then eat a delicious lunch of the recipes learned. Not to mention that you get to do all that while sipping the most scrumptious cocktails] Acre [just right after Flora Farms is Acre, also a working farm and a very trendy hotel in which the rooms are tree houses. I really like the restaurant there, probably more than Flora Farms. And the architecture and landscaping, for me, is a dream! Staying at the treehouse amid the palm tree canopies, is quite beautiful and unlike any other hotel, but if you are a light sleeper, I would not recommend it. Music from the restaurant can be heard at night as well as people walking by and talking until the bar closes for night]

La Paz

About 1-hr drive north of Todos Santos is the town of La Paz. It’s the Baja California Sur state capital, right on the Sea of Cortez with lots to explore.

TO DO Isla Espiritu Santo [take a boat tour to Isla Espiritu Santo, a protected biosphere, with stunning deserted beaches, a sea lion colony, dolphins, a coral reef for snorkeling and if you are lucky some whale sightings. The fin whales live in the Sea of Cortez year round. You can go on a day-trip or camp overnight on the island. Many local outfitters offer trips to Espiritu Santo] Other tour options that I still need to explore are: swimming with Whale Sharks, kayaking in the Sea of Cortez, Balandra Beach, etc.

Loreto

Loreto is about a 5.5hr drive north of Todos Santos on the Sea of Cortez. Like Todos Santos, it has also been designated as a Pueblo Mágico for it’s historical relevance in Baja California Sur and natural beauty. The last hour of the drive through the Giganta mountain range with the Sea of Cortez at a distance is quite beautiful. While the town itself was nothing super special (but it was also a Covid year with lots of things closed, so not a good time to judge a town), the surrounding nature is the reason to go there.

STAY We rented an airbnb that I would not highly recommend and I have not come across a hotel that looked fantastic, so the stay here is more about being clean, comfortable enough & well located.

EAT El Zopilote Brewing Co [with a patio overlooking the Town Square, it offers a variety of craft beers, fresh seafood and artisan pizzas, usually along with live music. This was our favorite restaurant] Pan Que Pan [good bakery for breakfast or lunch] Mezzaluna [Uruguayan restaurant offering empanadas, pizzas, and some good pastas]

TO DO Canyon Hiking Tour [There are multiple hiking options, but we selected the Mezquite Canyon to explore. We had a guide - highly recommended - and you can find him at https://www.loretoguide.com. We started our walk along the canyon rim and it’s desert landscape typical of the area, then dropped down into the narrow walls of this canyon with pockets of lush green and water pools. It was December and surprisingly cold, so we had short wetsuits in order to hike through the water pools that at times would come up to your chest] Isla Coronado [take a boat tour to Isla Coronado for some snorkeling, a walk around the island and a lovely lunch at a pristine dreamy white beach with turquoise waters - you will not want to leave] San Javier Mission [about 45-minutes from Loreto, a visit to this Mission founded in 1699 by the Jesuits and very well preserved was highly recommended but we did not get to see it] Bahia Concepción [about 1.5hrs north of Loreto is this magical Bay that is a must-see if you have the time to drive that far. We unfortunately did not]


 

 

 

São Paulo, Brazil - 2019

São Paulo is a massive, sprawling city of skyscrapers with about 21 million people living in it’s metropolitan area. It is polluted, the traffic is maddening and I would not make a trip to Brazil to visit São Paulo. But if you will be in Brazil and want to spend a couple of days in São Paulo (you will most likely fly in and out of there anyway), there are some gems worth seeing. There is a misconception that SP is just a grey concrete jungle, but if you get to walk or drive around the neighborhoods of Jardim Paulista, Jardim Europa, Pinheiros, Vila Madalena, you will experience some really green neighborhoods with massive, mature trees that are quite lovely.

STAY Fasano Hotel [trendy & beautiful boutique hotel in a great location walkable to Oscar Freire Street which full of shops & great restaurants] Emiliano Hotel [another upscale boutique hotel not too far from Fasano] Renaissance Hotel [very large, but comfortable hotel, close to Avenida Paulista which is the heart of São Paulo] - these first three hotels are in the Jardim Paulista neighborhood that is quite walkable & green - Hotel Unique [high-end hotel with a modernist architecture and very unique, as the name says, look & feel. In a residential neighborhood close to Ibirapuera Park but not walkable to much else]

EAT São Paulo has a lot of good restaurants and I will just name a few that I got to eat at on my last 2-night stay there - Maní [this is my favorite restaurant in SP; it takes very typical/traditional Brazilian ingredients to create a more refined meal in a quaint former house with an intimate vibe. The caipirinhas are to die for, so make sure to have one or two - don’t go to the location in the Mall, go to location in Pinheiros] D.O.M [considered one of the 50 best restaurants in the world, eating at D.O.M is a journey into the heart of the Amazon jungle & rivers, into the forgotten indigenous traditions & ingredients; it is Brazilian food to be proud of. Yes, it’s high end & refined. And not cheap. But a real treat! And make sure o have the cocktails!] Dalva e Dito [same chef as D.O.M, Alex Atala, but a bit more casual] Pão de Queijo Haddock Lobo [this tiny hole in the wall serves the most delicious traditional cheese breads] Balaio [inside the the cultural center Instituto Moreira Salles - IMS, this restaurant also serves creative & traditional Brazilian dishes in a very casual environment with shared tables. Delicious food!] Santo Grão [casual café & restaurant on Oscar Freire, good option for breakfast or lunch]

TO DO Instituto Moreira Salles - IMS [at Avenida Paulista this wonderful cultural center offers free art & photography exhibits, an art bookstore & a movie theatre; you will also get a great view of Avenida Paulista from this building] MASP [this is THE art museum in Brazil; also on Avenida Paulista] Private Street Art Tour with Around SP [Dóris was my wonderful guide who took me around SP to see all my favorite street artist’s installations - Kobra, Os Gêmeos, Miss Van, etc - we started with a tour of the Ibirapuera Park, which is the Central Park of São Paulo. Many murals have been painted on the complex of building designed by the famous Brazilian architect Oscar Niemeyer. We also went to the Bairro of Santana to visit the Open Air Street Art Museum (MAAU). This museum has the largest conglomeration of art from the best known local street artist, with approximately 70 murals beneath the metro train tracks. Finally we made our way to the well-known bohemian neighborhood of Vila Madalena. We got to walk along back streets and alleyways to see the vibrant displays of spray-painted murals. It is a great way to see a little bit of SP and appreciate some art at the same time. You will notice that the only pictures I’m posting are from these tour] Lenny & Cia [this store has the nicest collection of bikinis & bathing suits in Brazil]

Amangiri, Utah - 2019

A 4-hr drive from Las Vegas is this stunning hideout in Canyon Point, Southern Utah, that blends into the landscape beautifully. It is located 25 minutes from the Page Municipal Airport, but just know that the drive from Las Vegas is worthwhile even if you drop-off the car in Page and fly back home. That’s what we did. 

This is a luxurious, all-inclusive hotel (except for the guided activities) and we treated ourselves, with our dear friends Bill & Laurie, for 3-night stay [Tip: we booked our stay the first week in November, and even though the weather is a bit cooler, the rates are a bit lower!]. There’s plenty to do for, at least, a week if a longer stay is possible. 

Two of the guided activities we got to experience and are not to be missed:

1.     Via Ferrata hike:  via ferrata (‘iron road’) is a series of cables and ladder rungs, fixed to the rock face that enable the ascent of steep mountain routes. It was definitely scary and an adrenaline ridden experience, but the breathtaking views it afforded us were out of this world. As part of the route we crossed an 18-inch-wide suspension bridge spanning a 600-foot-deep gorge. I’m afraid of heights but overcame it because I could not have missed this.

2.     Three Canyon tour in the Navajo Nation: led by a Navajo guide, this tour includes the Rattlesnake Canyon, Owl Canyon and the Upper Antelope. Note that the “famous” canyon in the area is Corkscrew and loads of people get to visit that canyon, one lined up behind another. This is a very different experience. These canyons are private with very few visitors at the same time. I have experienced both tours and this so far superior. When you encounter such majestic beauty, being able to enjoy it slowly, in silence to take it all in is essential for me.

Other places you can visit in that area:

Glen Canyon National Recreation Area & Lake Powell: 15 minutes

Grand Canyon South Rim: 2.5 hours

Grand Canyon North Rim: 2.5 hours

Zion National Park: 2 hours

Bryce Canyon National Park: 3 hours

Monument Valley: 2.5 hours

But also make sure to set time aside to sit by the beautiful pool that wraps around an immense boulder; enjoy the spa; take walks around the property or just read a book at the very private patio that every room offers with views of the surrounding landscape. 

Tel Aviv & Jerusalem - 2019

Michael & I went to Tel Aviv to visit our dear friends Merav & Lloyd and their cuties Romi & Ben, who now live there. Merav is originally from Israel and we had a blast exploring Tel Aviv and Jerusalem with them as our tour guides.

TEL AVIV

Tel Aviv has an incredible vibe & energy. Everyone is out at the beach, in the parks, along the boulevards, at outdoor cafés, biking around…it’s a dynamic city with lots of attitude!

EAT & DRINK

Shila [fusion, a lot of great seafood, beautiful space. Make reservations] HaBasta [at the Carmel Market with innovative dishes and fun ambiance. Also make reservations] North Abraxas [Eyal Shani has a few popular restaurants in Tel Aviv and this is one of them. While I did not eat her, I heard good things. I did go to his other restaurant Port Said for lunch and highly recommend it. Dinner is a bit chaotic so I would avoid that. Beit Romano is another one of his restaurants. Also did not try but heard it has incredible energy. The pizza place downstairs is worth checking out too] Ha’achim [bustling restaurant on Ibn Gvirol Street. Really great vibe and delicious food] Santa Katarina [Tel Avivien easy going place in an arcade. Feels very European and the food was delicious. Also recommend making reservations] Mashya [beautiful space, fancier, inside the Mendeli Street hotel. Very creative dishes. We went for brunch and sat at the bar, really fun – book ahead] Café Puaa [on one of the charming streets in the Jaffa market area, this is a very popular spot for lunch. The food is good but it will not rock your world. The vibe is great!] Beit Kandinof [not sure if the food is good, but it’s a great space. Maybe for a drink?] Abu Hasan [in Jaffa for hummus. This is all they serve and it’s always packed. They know what they’re doing!] Hamiznon [famous spot with 2 locations. While it is not as amazing as I expected, it is a good spot for lunch. Super loud music and a bit chaotic but that is part of the appeal. Don’t miss the side dish of a whole cauliflower. Best thing on the menu!] Anita [delicious ice cream parlor in Neve Tzedek] Hilton Beach Bar [right on the white sandy beach in front of the Hilton Hotel, great spot for sundowner cocktails. Very sexy!] If you enjoy food markets these 2 are worth a visit - Carmel Market & Levinski Market. I would highly recommend finding a guide so you don’t miss the older gentleman who makes amazing almond cookies, the wonderful burekas or the freshly made kombuchas full of fresh fruits & herbs.

TO DO

The beaches [the Mediterranean water is clear, blue and the sand fine and white. A run along the boardwalk or a drink at the Hilton Beach top my list] Make your way along the seawall to Jaffa [wander up the hill to Jaffa and get lost among the maze of winding passageways lined up by honeyed color stone buildings. There are great views of Tel Aviv stretching along the Mediterranean coast. But make sure to go back down the hill towards the antique’s quarter, where cave-like recesses are filled with treasures if you have the time to to hunt for them. You will also encounter contemporary boutiques selling an exciting mix of handmade shoes, clothes and jewellery. This a bustling place in the evenings with a young, hip crowd] Bauhaus Architecture [Tel Aviv has a vast collection - around 4,000 - of Bauhaus buildings known as the White City. Go to the Bauhaus Center at 99 Dizengoff Street to learn more and get a map of the highlights worth visiting. The Nachalat Binyamin area has a lot of restored Bauhaus buildings. It also has a street market specializing in all sorts of different arts and crafts from all corners of Israel and it runs every Tuesday and Friday] Rothschild Boulevard [stroll down or bike down this shady boulevard flanked by very mature beautiful trees and by so many Bauhaus buildings in all states of repair and disrepair. Stop for a refreshment at one of the kiosks along the way] Neve Tzedek [the first neighborhood in Tel Aviv, now restored and very desirable with its narrow streets and photogenic houses. Walk along Shabazi Street, its main street full of fashionable restaurants & boutiques, but make sure to also wander along the side passageways]

STAY

White Villa [charming boutique hotel housed in a refurbished mansion, very centrally located by Habima Square & Rothschild Boulevard. Delicious breakfast included]

JERUSALEM

We took the bus from Tel Aviv to Jerusalem just for the day. Once you get to the bus station in Jerusalem, you can catch the brand new and modern monorail that will take you to the Old City - our first stop. If you don’t have someone with you who knows the Old City, I would highly recommend a guide. This is an area so rich in history & culture, with a maze of narrow alleyways that need an expert to navigate you through. Shuki Haidu from www.tastejerusalem.com is a pro. Our next stop was the Machane Yehuda market, "The Shuk", which is a must see. Fresh spices sold by weight, pitas coming out of the oven, fresh fruits & vegetables, halvas of every flavor imaginable…..it’s a feast for your senses! We were able to walk into the impossibly popular and busy Machneyuda restaurant – the most famous restaurant in Israel. While I did not think the food was out of this world, the place is super high energy & really fun. Our friends went back there a couple of weeks later and said the food was out of this world, so maybe we caught an off day. Make reservations months in advance if you don’t want to risk it like we did. This is a very full & fulfilling day, and a day is not enough time if you really want to experience Jerusalem!


Harbor House Inn, Elk California - 2019

The Harbor House Inn is a small upscale inn in a 1916 Craftsman house, that rests on the edge of the rustic Mendocino coastline. It has its own private cove with panoramic views, an incredible Michelin-starred restaurant that serves a coastal-cuisine with a lot of the ingredients grown in the property, and it is located just 30-minutes south of the historical village of Mendocino. 

For those living in the Bay Area, this is an easy & wonderful weekend getaway. Or if you are driving up the Northern California coast it should be a stop for at least a night. If you drive from the Bay area take route 128 through Anderson Valley which is a lovely, less visited wine area, and you can stop for lunch at Stone and Embers, near Philo, for delicious wood-fired pizzas. In that same area is Bewildered Pig, that is only open for dinner and serves amazing food. Another stop is the Philo Apple Farm for some freshly made apple jams or chutneys. 

TO DO Hang out on the lovely hotel deck with breathtaking views of Wharf Rock; follow the garden pathways down to the private beach for more breathtaking views; go on one of the multiple hikes between Elk and Mendocino and the hotel will provide you with descriptions of their favorite ones; drive up to Mendocino and walk around town; and do not miss having dinner at Harbor House. It’s a pre-set menu, beautifully done. A real treat!

 

Isla Holbox - 2019

My friend M and I wanted to have a relaxing vacation at the beach somewhere and we chose Isla Holbox, in the Yucatan’s north coast in Mexico. While it was not entirely disappointing, it was also not what we expected.  Our assumption was that given the fact that you have to fly to Cancun, then drive for 2 hrs to catch a 30-minute ferry to this remote island, that it would be pretty chill, not a lot of tourists and not very built-out. We were wrong! People staying in Cancun come in big numbers to Isla Holbox for the day and they were a bit of a party crowd. Also, the island is a bit more built-out than I expected with some thoughtless buildings built too close to the ocean, damaged by the waters/hurricanes and then abandoned. But it was not all bad. Nature more than makes up for the man-made stuff. It wowed us with its gorgeous turquoise waters, white sandy beaches and abundant wildlife. 

Here were the highlights:

EAT Luuma [by far our favorite spot. Amazing vibe!! Good food, tapas style, and great cocktails] Mandarina Restaurant at Casa Las Tortugas [beautiful setting right on the beach, serving great salads, juices and tons of other food options. Don’t miss going upstairs on their terrace where sushi is served] Ser Casasandra [good spot for a more upscale dinner in a very charming restaurant] Painapol [fun little place in the downtown area for breakfast – great smoothies]

STAY Ser Casasandra [not where we stayed but my favorite hotel and where I would stay if I was ever to go back. Beautifully designed  & right on the beach] Hotel Punta Caliza [it had just opened when we were there and looks very laid back and charming] Casa las Tortugas [more centrally located while still beachside with a great bar, restaurant and lounge area]

TO DO The morning hours at the island were my favorite. The beach is almost deserted, the knee high waters next to the shore with the sandbank protruding a few feet away over the very calm warm water is paradise. You can walk, as we did every morning, for a couple of hours alternating between the sandbank and the water (go in the direction of Villa Flamingos). We saw manta rays, pelicans, storks, etc along the way. Unfortunately this was not the time of year for flamingos. There are boat tours for swimming with whale sharks, but again, not the right time of year, so we stayed put. 

Note that you get around the island on foot or by bicycle. No cars are allowed aside from golf carts.

New York - over the years....

WORK IN PROGRESS....

STAY The High Line Hotel [small boutique hotel in Chelsea by the high line - great location] The Marlton [tiny rooms, but charming hotel in Greenwich Village just a couple of block from Washington Square] The Standard High Line [also a great location in the Meatpacking District with beautiful views of the area, but it is a party hotel and it can get tacky pretty fast, specially over the weekend. Not my favorite] 

EAT Don't even know where to start.....will categorize it by neighborhood.

NOLITA Uncle Boon's [small funky space serving very creative Thai food] Ruby's Cafe [petite Australian diner-like restaurant] DeMaria [open for breakfast/lunch/dinner, serves delicious healthy food]

WEST VILLAGE Buvette [tiny & cozy bistrot that serves tapas-style French food - LOVE this place] Bar Sardine [also a very small charming space great just for drinks or casual dinner] Little Owl [seems to be a trend of mine with small, cozy spaces - here is another one serving Mediterranean/American food] Joseph Leonard [continuing on my trend of tiny spaces, this is another great option for dinner] Via Carota [Italian trattoria, same owners as Buvette] Charlie Bird [great bar that plays 90's hip-hop and serves an Italian-American fare with very good wines & creative cocktails] 

GREENWICH VILLAGE Springbone Kitchen [casual spot for breakfast or lunch, really delicious bone broths]

GRAMERCY PARK Casa Mono [tiny Spanish tapas restaurant - one of my favorites. Don't miss the wine bar just around the corner for a pre or post dinner drink] ABC Kitchen [beautiful chic space that serves American cuisine with fresh and local ingredients - not cheap!] Maialino [inside the Gramercy Park Hotel, it serves classic Italian food] 

CHELSEA/MEATPACKING DISTRICT Chelsea Market [great food market, not as much for fresh produce, but more for gourmet purchases or great spot for lunch] El Quinto Pino [tiny Spanish tapas & wine bar - love this place!] Untitled [modern design with glass from floor-to-ceiling inside the Whitney Museum, it serves seasonal American fare]

FLATIRON DISTRICT Upland [spacious Italian brasserie, chic & casual vibe at the same time] Eataly [if you love everything Italy, this is your place. You can get coffee, ice cream, fresh produce, meat & seafood, chocolates, cook books, cooking utensils, and great spots for lunch or dinner. Generally packed though!] Sweetgreen [if you're in the mood for a great salad] Cosme [upscale Mexican food; good food but not what you typically expect to pay for Mexican food; be prepared] O Ya [very creative & high quality Japanese spot; one of the best Japanese restaurants I have been to] Union Square Cafe [classic restaurant at a new location; refined but casual and the food as solid as ever. Great wine selection] 

BOWERY Bohemian ["secret" bar and restaurant in the back of a Japanese butcher shop, with great Japanese food in what feels like someone's dining room] Rebelle [industrial style space that serves modern French cuisine] Il Buco [Mediterranean/Italian food served in an old-school rustic space full of charm. Always a favorite!] Il Buco Alimentari e Vineria [right next door to Il Buco; similar concept]

EAST VILLAGE Huertas [delicious Basque cuisine; weather-permitting, ask to have a drink or dessert in their tiny backyard]

BROOKLYN Olmsted [great food; a vegetable garden in the backyard where a lot of the ingredients used at the restaurant are grown; there are benches in this tiny urban farm where drinks and snacks are served] Lilia [wonderful Italian food in Williamsburg]

TO DO

High Line [probably my favorite spot in NY, this is a linear public park built on an abandoned & historic elevated freight rail line. It runs from Gansevoort Street to 34th Street  - 1.45 miles or 2.3km long - providing incredible views of Meatpacking and Chelsea neighborhoods. The attention to detail and creativity of its design makes this park so incredible and it will surprise you all through its length]  Central Park [the most beautiful urban park in the world! Walk, bike, run around the park. A must in NYC] Judd Foundation [original home of Donald Judd in a gorgeous five story cast iron building in Soho. Judd was a minimalist artist and his paintings, furniture he designed and built as well as the work of other well known 20th century artists that he collected can be seen in a tour of the house] MOMA - Museum of Modern Art [in Midtown and my favorite museum in NYC and probably in the US. Incredible permanent exhibit of modern art not to be missed] Whitney Museum [in Meatpacking District, it's collection focuses on 20th- and 21st-century American art; offers some great views of the High Line] One World Observatory [climb 102 floors in 47 seconds to the top of One World Trade Center where the views of Manhattan and it's surroundings is not to be missed]

Asheville - 2016

EAT Red Ginger Dimsum & Tapas [very good dumplings]; Buxton Hall BBQ [very cool space, food so-so, pies delicious]; The Corner Kitchen [very casual with creative & very good food]; Rhubarb [delicious food, desserts very unique but not satisfying if you like sweets]; Local Provisions [a bit pricey, but good food, specially the appetizers and preserves section. You can skip dessert]; Curate [great tapas].

DRINK If you are a beer lover, this is THE town for you, with more micro-breweries than anywhere else in the US. Since I’m not a beer loves, I only went to New Belgian Brewery and the setting was quite nice J

The Crow & Quill [speakeasy, no signs, great bar!]; Lex 18 [moonshine bar & Appalachian supper club with live music; super cool space]; Trade and Lore [coffee]

SLEEP Princess Anne Hotel [historic inn at a quiet location not too far from downtown]

TO DO Biltmore Estate cannot be missed. Largest home in the US, still belongs to the Vanderbilt family. The self-guided tour of the house is incredible and the gardens, designed by Frederick Law Olmstead, must be visited. Allow at least 3-4hrs. The tickets are quite pricey - $65/person - but worth it!

Thanks Deb for some of these great pics!

Rome - 2016

EAT

Salumeria Volpetti in Testaccio is Italian gastronomic heaven, with hundreds of cheeses, incredible selection of cured meats, oils, vinegars, etc.

Ristorante L'Arcangelo very creative take on traditional Roman dishes in a small and charming restaurant.

Armando al Pantheon well executed traditional Roman fare in a small, narrow room with old-school ambiance & full of charm.

Salumeria-Vineria Roscioli has a salumeria in front and restaurant in the back; I don’t even know how many times I have used the word charming to describe Italy, but this place, here we go again, is so full of charm. Make reservations ahead of time.

Pizzarium is the place to go for a slice of pizza (we did not get to go though). We had pizza instead at Emma Pizzeria and it was quite good.

Testaccio Food Market - Mordi e Vai where Sergio Esposito, a retired butcher, serves sandwiches and side dishes made from family recipes.

GELATO - needs its own category - Grom [chain of gelato stores, but still serves very high quality gelati]; Gelateria del Teatro [unique flavours of gelati]; Fior di Luna [very good gelateria in Trastevere]; Carapina [another great option]

SLEEP Hotel Martis Palace is where we stayed. Near Piazza Navona, this hotel is at a great central location, walkable to most of the main touristic attractions in Rome. G Rough is where we would have liked to stay. Same area, the design and style of this small hotel is incredible, but it is pretty costly. Another option, closer to the Spanish Steps, is Margutta 54.

TO DO

This was not our first time in Rome, so we did not feel the need to cover the famous sites, and decided to explore less known areas & museums.

Panoramic Electric Bike Tour will take you to 6 of the 7 hills in Rome, allowing for amazing panoramic views of the city. We got to see most of the well-known areas and monuments, giving us a great perspective of Rome. We did it through Top Bike Rentals and Tours and they were great.

Palazzo Massimo alle Terme is a small museum that holds a great collection of Ancient Roman works of art, including incredible mosaics. Off the beaten path, it’s worth a visit (thank you Laurie for the recommendation).

Basilica di San Clemente - Rome has over 900 churches, so you will get to see a church every two blocks or so, and this is not an exaggeration! Of all these churches, we got to visit Basilica di San Clemente, again thanks to Laurie’s recommendation, and it was the right choice. We peaked into many other churches, but this one is worth a longer visit.

Food Tour of Testaccio/Trastevere neighborhoods through KatieParla.com – Testaccio used to be a blue-collar residential neighborhood outside of City limits, where the main slaughterhouse for the area was based. Today it is part of Rome, and a sought after neighborhood for its proximity to the City center and at the same time its small town feel. There’s a nice food market “Nuovo mercato di Testaccio” to visit close to the contemporary art museum MACRO on the site of the now deactivated slaughterhouse. One of the nice surprises on this tour was the Protestant Cemetery located in this same neighborhood. Very small with beautiful well-maintained grounds and fascinating tombstones.  Trastevere is a very charming neighborhood in Rome that has become quite popular for it’s cobblestone streets, beautiful piazzas, plenty of restaurant & bar options. Some think it is loosing a bit of its character and I would agree if you are strolling along the main streets and piazza. But if you explore the small side streets and get deep into the neighborhood, the experience will be very different & more authentic.

Pender Island - 2016

ITINERARY

Fly to Vancouver > Ferry to Victoria (Tsawwassen-Swartz Bay) in Vancouver Island > Ferry to Pender Island (Swartz Bay-Otter Bay) > retrace your steps back to Vancouver.

Depending on the time of year and day of the week, there are direct ferries between Pender Island and Vancouver. The ferry rides are beautiful if the weather cooperates. 

For my father’s 70th birthday we decided to take a trip to somewhere new, by the water, with few people around. What drew us to Pender Island was a house we found on airbnb (more about it below), and the more I read about the island, the more we thought it was the perfect getaway.

We did spend a ½ day in Victoria in between ferry rides and that is worth a stop. I would not spend days here though.

VICTORIA

The Victoria that’s worth seeing is very small: Old Town district, the Inner Harbour area and a walk around Beacon Hill Park, to the south. Don’t miss Chinatown – not cheesy and full of historic nooks and crannies to explore.

If you want to buy some food supplies to bring with you to Pender Island, you can check out the Victoria Public Market at the Hudson or a bit outside of the downtown area, the Red Barn Country Market. It is not necessary since Pender has a small grocery store, but the variety of options in Victoria will be greater.

PENDER ISLAND

Pender Island is one of the Southern Gulf Islands located in in between Vancouver, BC and Victoria, BC. It consists of two islands, North Pender and South Pender, which are separated by a narrow canal connected by a one-lane bridge, but feels like one island.

TO DO

Sunset Bliss Kayak Tour with Kayak Pender Island Adventures (http://www.kayakpenderisland.com). They offer plenty of other tours but we liked this relaxing option.

Bike around the island. It is a bit hilly so rent an electric bike from Kayak Pender Island Adventures. We did it on a Saturday and first stopped at their Saturday Farmer’s Market at the Community Center. From there we biked on Pirates Road all the way to Peter Cove/Wallace Point. You can go for a swim there or stop at Magic Lake along a way.

Hike to Mount Norman – highest peak in the island with beautiful views of the Bay.

Visit Sea & Star Vineyards. They have a tasting room open most days but check their calendar for events. We went for their Friday late afternoon/early evening tasting, with an art exhibit, food truck and live music.

If you have the time, go explore the other Gulf Islands: Saturna, Mayne, Galiano & Salt Spring. You could kayak to Mayne Island or take a bike on the ferry to explore the others.

STAY Gulf Island View Residence on airbnb (https://www.airbnb.com/rooms/10364764). This house was absolutely stunning…you don’t have to actually ever leave the house to enjoy the beauty of the island.

You could also stay at an airstream trailer at Woods on Pender (https://woodsonpender.com). Either way make sure to stop at their restaurant Coffee Kitchen, for breakfast, lunch, dinner or just a drink.

Mexico City - 2015 (updated in 2018)

EAT Mercado Roma [in La Roma neighborhood, this is a bustling food market; great spot for lunch] Pujol [considered the best restaurant in Mexico City; very clever & delicious takes on regional Mexican recipes; 2018 update: Pujol has moved to a new home, much bigger and quite beautiful with an outdoor bar surrounded by lush vegetation. However the food has suffered tremendously from their fame & growth in my opinion. While we still had a fun experience, most of the dishes, except for the aged mole - 1502 days at this point - we could have had in any other restaurant, anywhere else in the world. A pity!] Contramar [good seafood; only open for lunch. Know that in Mexico City, lunch is not at 11.30-12pm. It’s around 2-3pm!] Hosteria La Bota [a bit of a dive bar serving cheap Spanish food. Great fun vibe] Maximo Bistrot [while I was not blown away by the food, it is a fun place. Don’t miss out on having a cocktail at their bar upstairs. It’s a bit hidden, which adds to its charm]

2018: Quintonil [also considered one of the best restaurants in Mexico City, serving contemporary Mexican cuisine. Worth checking out] Ojo de Agua [in Condesa - was the go to spot for healthy breakfasts, fresh juices & smoothies, fresh fruits, great salads and sandwiches]

DRINK Romita Comedor [great bar in a high, glass-ceilinged greenhouse structure; 2018 - we tried to go there again, but it was closed, and it seems like permanently so] Gin Gin [high ceilings, brick walls and leafy plants make up the interior décor] Besides cocktails, Mexico City has great coffee to offer and our favorite coffee shops were: Panaderia Rosetta [tiny bakery & coffee shop on Colima St in Roma Norte. My #1 choice] Lalo, Dosis Cafe, Cardinal - all in Roma Norte as well. 

2018: Baltra Bar [very small & charming bar in Condesa, really liked it] Aurora [while we did not go, I was told that this bar has an open air patio to be found behind a secret door where you can sip gin cocktails & and listen to live jazz]

SLEEP Downtown Mexico [while it’s a very stylish boutique hotel, housed in a restored 17th-century residence, it is a party hotel and you will not be able to sleep. The DJ on the rooftop bar reverberates through the hotel until early hours in the morning. So avoid it, but still stop by to see the building if you are in the historic center] 

2018 - We stayed at an amazing apartment in La Condesa and loved it. Great location, safe, clean & super comfortable - https://www.airbnb.com/rooms/20862378

TO DO Sabores Mexico Food Tours [Historic Center tour is awesome. You will explore the fascinating San Juan food market, have street food, have a drink in a typical cantina and learn so much about traditional & regional Mexican cuisine. Don’t miss it -http://saboresmexicofoodtours.com/tour/historic-center-food-tour] Walk around Colonia Roma & La Condesa [these side-by-side bohemian neighborhoods are home to some of the city's hippest cafes and bars, cutting-edge restaurants & offbeat shops - some favorites are Carla Fernandez, CR+EH, 180°. These neighborhoods are also known for having great Art Deco & Colonial buildings, so really explore them]

2018 - San Angel Saturday Bazaar [on Saturdays, as the name implies, one of the favorite things we did was head over to the sleepy, cobble-stoned streets of San Angel to shop in an old colonial plaza filled with artists and artisans who sell their products. There's a restaurant inside & a taco stand - best chicken tacos I have ever had on fresh tortillas handmade right on the spot. Around the corner there is an old church behind a wall with a beautiful park in front that we found by walking around the neighborhood. It does not feel like you are still in Mexico City, but in a small quiet village] Culinary Backstreets [we took the tour: "The City Green: Exploring the Urban Eco-Reserve of Xochimilco" and really enjoyed it - https://culinarybackstreets.com/tours-food-tours/tours-mexico-city/2017/city-green-exploring-urban-eco-reserve-xochimilco. Xochimilco is a UNESCO heritage and the last part of the city that preserves an ancient system of canals and farms - chinampas - first built by the Aztecs. We traversed the canals with our own trajinera – a festively-decorated flat-bottom boat with a pole man guiding it. We also visited Xochimilco’s colorful food market, where we tried different pre-Columbian dishes such as tlacoyos (oval-shaped corn-meal patties filled squash blossoms and cheese); banana leaf-wrapped tamales made by an older couple – the best I've ever had, no doubt about it!; tacos with cecina - dried meat - and chorizo. A few blocks away from the market we went to a pulquería, which serves a slightly fermented agave drink that can be drunk natural or flavored with different natural ingredients. This is a drink from the Aztec period, but only priests, women and warriors could drink it back then. This Pulqueria is in business since the 1970’s and run by a family who has been in the pulque trade for more than 100 years. So old-school, authentic, and non-touristy. Loved it!]

ART/ARCHITECTURE so many incredible art museums, galleries & architecture in Mexico City that it needs it’s own category. Museo Jumex [contemporary-art collection in Polanco] Museo Soumaya [go at least see the building, right next to Jumex; it accommodates the extensive collection of one of the world’s richest men, Carlos Slim Hélu. He built this museum in memory of his wife] Museo Dolores Olmedo Patino [Dolores Olmedo first modeled for Diego Rivera when she was 20. Her 8-acre estate, now houses this museum where visitors find one of the world’s largest collections of Rivera paintings & drawings as well pieces by his wife, Frida Kahlo. It is, however, pretty out of the way] Casa Luis Barragan [don’t let the concrete exterior fool you. Casa Luis Barragán is the midcentury home and studio of architect Luis Barragán, one of my favorites, and it emphasizes natural light, bright color, and striking contrasts; in the Tacubaya neighborhood; right on the edge with La Condesa] Diego Rivera Murals [First visit the amphitheatre in Antiguo Colegio de San Ildefonso. The space is dominated by Rivera’s first mural, La Creación. Next go to the best location to see Diego’s work at the Secretaria di Educacion (Education Secretariat). This government office – with free admission and friendly guards – sees very few tourists. The Secretaria’s two courtyards are lined with 120 fresco panels by Rivera. It is incredible! Finally make sure to go to the Palacio Nacional where a massive mural that surrounds a majestic staircase. Just note that this is the most popular mural seen by tourists, so it can be very busy] Frida Kahlo’s Casa Azul [if you are interested in Frida’s life and work, this cannot be missed. Book tickets ahead of time. It's in the Coyoacán neighborhood, so take the time to walk around and go to Mercado Coyoacán. ] Museo Casa Studio Diego Rivera y Frida Kahlo  [in San Ángel neighborhood, not too far from Coyoacán. If you have the time is worth a visit]  Museum of Anthropology [most revelatory when it comes to Mexican design. The collection inside is the finest record of Maya, Aztec, Oaxacan and more Mesoamerican civilizations. It is in Polanco neighborhood] Archivo Diseño y Arquitectura [is a space dedicated to exhibiting, researching and rethinking design in its many forms]

INTERESTING FACT did you know that Mezcal is a generic term like sparkling wine? For a spirit to be called tequila it has to be made with blue agave in the region of Tequila Jalisco, just like champagne.

2015

2018

North Haven, Maine - 2015

North Haven, Maine, is an island located 12 miles off the coast of Rockland, Maine. It's a small town with no major shopping centers or stop lights one inn, a small grocery store and 3 restaurants. It is a very special place! To get there: take the 70-minute ferry from Rockland or sail to the island if you rent sailboat or have a friend with one like we did :-)

SLEEP & EAT Nebo Lodge [a small & charming inn and restaurant]

TO DO Get bicycles at Nebo Lodge and bike around the island. Make sure to stop at The Turner Farm, which provides the lodge with all its produce, eggs, flowers & meat. Other options: sailing, kayaking & swimming in the bay.

 

Tulum - 2015

EAT Hartwood [the whole restaurant is outside & everything is cooked on open wood fire; make reservations ahead of time]; Casa Banana [same as Hartwood; great cocktails]; Arca [beautiful outdoors restaurant with delicious & creative food & cocktails]; Chamico’s [a laid back beachside cafe under a thicket of palm trees. It has no phone, website or address. To get there, turn off the highway onto a small dirt road - look for the sign for the Jashita Hotel - and drive down to Soliman Bay. Give the guard at the makeshift gate a look that says you know what you’re doing. Then drive past palatial villas until the road ends. Cash only. Open 9 a.m. to 5 p.m. — or whenever the owner feels like it. You have to order the fried fish!] The Real Coconut at Sanara [good for healthy breakfast, juices & smoothies] Posada Margherita [although I did not eat here, it’s a great space a friend swears about their food]

SLEEP Coqui Coqui [we stayed at this great boutique hotel that unfortunately no longers exists]; Sanara [eco chic boutique hotel right at the beach] Be Tulum [although a bit out of the way, it’s a beautiful hotel with a lounge area at the beach you will never want to leave] Mi Amor [although I did not see this hotel in-person, it definitely fits my sense of style :-)]

TO DO Cenotes [Nick is a fantastic tour guide if you want to visit cenotes which are natural swimming holes around Tulum. He can be reached at: [email protected] or http://tulumliving.com/avatar-adventure-tours-tulum/] Mayan Ruins [ride a bike there in the morning before all the tourists arrive; very nice beach] Spa [Yaan - http://yaanwellness.com - beautiful treatment cabanas & very unique Mayan-influenced treatments] Yoga [plenty of yoga can be found in Tulum, but no space beats Sanara where you practice in a glass building right at the beach]

Berlin - 2014

What an incredible city! It's one of those places you have to go back to over and over to really experience all it has to offer. There are so many museums, galleries and historical sites to see in Berlin that it was really hard to choose a few for the 4 days we had there. First we started with a few tours to help us understand the overall history of the city, see our options and the city layout. Then we rented a bike at our hotel and explored the City on our own. Cycling is a great way to see Berlin. Here are the details:

TOURS Fat Tire E-Bike Tour [this was an incredible 6-hr tour that took us to so many parts of Berlin. We had a great guide who was able to break down Berlin’s history as we saw infamous sites. Having a visual helps you absorb historical events and really imagine what it was like. He would even get chalk and draw on the sidewalk, so we could remember how West Berlin was so isolated from the rest of the world. We visited Tempelhof, which is a deactivated airport turned into an enormous park, but served during WW2 to supply any and everything people in West Berlin needed to survive] Alternative Berlin Tours [street art & graffiti tour led by street artists, graffiti writers or experts on the scene. You get to see some great stencil art, mural art, paste ups, etc, while learning who is behind each piece and what their motivations are. Every famous street artist has their work showcased in Berlin]

SEE Sammlung Boros [private gallery housed in a bunker; a uniquely Berlin experience; book tour ahead of time] Kunst-Werke Berlin [an abandoned margarine factory in Mitte, converted into a gallery and studio space for international modern art – very cool and very Berlin] Reichstag Building [German’s Parliament can be visited but tickets need to be booked way in advance. We only visited the dome and roof terrace of the building. It had spectacular views of the parliamentary and government district and Berlin’s sights. You could also try out a tour of the Reichstag - if the Parliament is not in session] Hamburger Bahnhof Museum [a modern art space housed in an old train station] Liquidrom [very hip mixed-gender indoor bathhouse; you have to be comfortable with nudity though!] Holocaust Memorial [site covered by grey concrete slabs that are arranged in a grid pattern. It reminds you of a cemetery with gravestones, but also resembles a Jewish ghetto with narrow lanes as you walk through the site. I’m sure there are many interpretations to this powerful memorial. The museum below is also worth a stop, but be ready for leaving it with a heavy heart] Tiergarten [bike through this beautiful park]

EAT Cookies and Cream [This speak-easy type restaurant with a completely separate entrance, hidden away in a delivery yard around the back of the Westin Grand hotel. You have to walk past wooden palettes and the trash bin before you see a chandelier dangling in the alley in front of a door so that’s your door. Just ring the bell and they will buzz you in. Not amazing food, but great dinner experience] Monsieur Vuong [laid back Vietnamese restaurant] Lokal [delicious food with fresh ingredients. We had dinner here twice!] YamYam [authentic Korean food - don’t miss the bibimbap with vegetables, homemade kimchi, a fried egg, and rice in a sizzling stone bowl]
We came across some other fun restaurants but I unfortunately did not keep their info!

STAY Casa Camper Hotel [simple but very well designed hotel in Mitte which is a great part of the City to stay at. Close to everything! They have a lounge on the top floor with panoramic city view that serves a great breakfast and free drinks, yogurt, fruit, snacks and fresh salads 24 hours a day]

Curiosity: This looks like the parking lot of an apartment building, right? Well, that's actually what it is. But what is underneath this parking lot is what is interesting: Hitler's bunker. And this is where he killed himself. There is only a tiny sign on this site indicating it's historical importance. Clearly not something Germany is proud about and wants to call attention to.

Curiosity: this small plaques are on sidewalks all over the City. They indicate that a Jew lived or owned the building facing it. And that this person was killed under the Nazi regime. A tiny way to make sure they are not forgotten.

These are curiosities we learned during our tours. We would never have noticed any of these if a guide had not pointed it out. 

Kyoto - 2011

This is my first visit to Japan and I got so enamored with Japanese culture. They are very good at being moderate. The design of buildings and interiors are very calming, elegant, simple and feels effortless even though you know there was a lot of thought put into it. Nothing is splashy. They are very organized, polite and everything runs on time, to the minute!

Kyoto was our first and only stop on this trip and it conjures up the classic image of Japan: streets of traditional wooden houses, the click-clack of geta (traditional wooden sandals) on the paving stones, geisha passing by wearing brightly coloured silks, and temple pagodas. The vast amount of culture and history to explore in Kyoto is astounding.

We arrived in Kyoto via train from Osaka's airport and Kyoto's main train station is a modern cathedral-like place with underground shopping malls, a massive hotel, restaurants, etc....it's beyond stimulating and at the same time calm, quiet, and ordered. This would be the case in any very populated areas we visited. I loved the sense of sense of peace even in the midst of chaos. 

SEE Here are some of the temples & other sites I recommend visiting– you will be templed-out after a couple of days in Kyoto J. We biked to every temple and it's a great way to get around Kyoto.

Nijō-jō [castle surrounded by double moats, massive walls and watchtowers] Kiyomizu-dera [has a wooden platform overhanging the valley and is one of Kyoto's defining sights] Nanzen-ji [is a large compound of temples Ginkaku-ji - also known as the Temple of the Silver Pavilion. It houses a simple building and its garden takes centre stage] Daitoku-ji [is one of Kyoto's largest Zen foundations, with over twenty sub-temples in its large, walled compound] Tenryuji [is the most important temple in Kyoto's Arashiyama district. It's one of  Kyoto's first great Zen temple and you should try the vegetarian lunch that Zen monks prepare there. This type of meal is called shojin ryorui where an effort is made to make the most out of relatively humble ingredients in order to express three Shingon key tenets of sin - sincerity, cleanliness, and presentation.] Sagano Bambu Forest [in the same area as Tenryuji, worth a walk through the forest] Kinkaku-ji [is the famous Temple of the Golden Pavilion; really beautiful but unfortunately pretty crowded] Ryōan-ji [is known for its famous dry garden.The garden consists of a long, walled rectangle of off-white gravel, in which fifteen stones of various sizes are arranged in five groups, some rising up from the raked sand and others almost completely lost. In fact, the stones are placed so that wherever you stand one of them is always hidden from view - a riddle, set by Zen masters to test their students] Saihō-ji [also known as Koke-dera (the "Moss Temple"). If you've got time to spare after the major sights, this temple is well worth visiting, not least because it's one of the few you can really enjoy in peace, thanks to the rather off-putting entry fee (termed a "donation") and the fact that you have to make an application. But in order to visit it you have to send them a request ahead of time - see instructions below: "To make a reservation, send a request by postal mail to the temple with your name, the number of people in your group, the name and address of your "group representative" and the proposed date of your visit, as well as a self-addressed, stamped return postcard. The request must reach the temple seven days before the date of your intended visit, but far more time is recommended. For visitors applying from inside Japan, a special return postcard called an ofuku hagaki is available from the post office for exactly these purposes. It comes in a set of two postcards, one of which is used by the receiving party to reply. Visitors applying from overseas can make use of an International Reply Coupon, available from most local post offices around the world. A reply indicating your reservation date and time will be sent to you by the temple on your self addressed return postcard. Reservations are not possible via internet or over the phone. The temple address is: Saihoji Temple, 56 Jingatani-cho, Matsuo, Nishikyo-ku, Kyoto, 615-8286, Japan. The admission fee of 3000 yen per person is paid at the time of the visit."] Maruyama Park [tranquil spot in Gion; be sure to see the hillside cemetery with a terraced maze of gravestones. The views from there are great] Miho Museum [stunning art museum designed by I.M. Pei is located on a rural, mountainous area outside of Kyoto and is only open for a few months every year – exact dates vary; to get there take the local train on the JR Biwako Line from JR Kyoto Station to JR Ishiyama Station. From there take a bus run by the Teisan Bus Company] Gion District [is the famous entertainment district traditionally associated with geisha and teahouses. It has retained a surprising number of narrow roads & wooden facades. Very photogenic] Fushimi Inari Shrine [famous for its thousands of vermilion torij gates which straddle a network of trails into a wooded forest]

SLEEP Yuzuya Ryokan [traditional ryokan and a fascinating experience. A bit on the pricey side but the rate includes a kaiseki dinner – elaborate multi-course meal typical of Kyoto – it was delicious and visually incredible. It also includes a kaiseki breakfast, amazing as well] Gion Maifukan [a slightly more modern ryokan but you will still sleep on a tatami]

EAT Honke Owariya [been around for 100s of years and serves primarily soba noodles] Elephant Factory Coffee [sweet coffee shop] Iyemon Salon Cafe [traditional tea house & restaurant in a modern space] OKU Gallery & Cafe [hip spot; the bottom floors is a bar/restaurant and the upper floor a cafe known for its sweets] Café Bibliotic Hello [beautifully designed cafe built into a library, super interesting] Nishiki-koji Market [a seven-block arcade packed with stalls selling anything you can imagine, from produce to seafood to special foods] Ristorante t.v.b [if you get tired of Japanese food, we stumbled across this Italian restaurant in Gion with fairly interesting pizzas and pastas] Okutan [Kyoto is the capital of tofu and this is one of the city’s most famous tofu restaurants. It is housed in a large, historic wooden hall, surrounded by very serene gardens. All you will eat here is tofu, but unlike any tofu you have ever had outside of Kyoto]