ITINERARY – 10 days
Palermo [2] > Agrigento [2] > Modica [3] > Etna Area [3]
PALERMO
Palermo may not be the natural choice for first-time visitors to Italy or even Sicily, but if you want a truly Sicilian experience, a couple of days in Palemo is a must. We had too quick of a visit to really experience all that this City has to offer. But be mentally prepared, especially if you decide to drive, for the most mind-blowing experience of chaos, where traffic rules, signage, lanes are merely suggestions. Most of the buildings in the City are old and they definitely show their age with faded and peeling paint, but that’s part of the charm of this City for an outsider like me (highly likely that a Palermitano would disagree). The streets are used as an extension of people’s living room after 5pm - Palermitanos socialize on the streets and squares & that are very lively with people shouting at each other from their terraces.
EAT Trattoria Piccolo Napoli [traditional seafood trattoria; let owner bring what’s fresh that day; you will be pleasantly surprised] Zia Pina [lunch only; we did not have the chance to eat here but if you want Mama’s homemade food in a hole-in-the wall place, this is the place to go]
DRINK Enoteca Piconi [historic wine shop & bar]
SLEEP Hotel Principe di Villafranca [nothing special, but in a good walkable neighborhood, close to a lot of the main attractions in the City]
SHOP Rizzo [custom made shoes, belts and purses; you get to see their different models, figure out your size and then have them fabricate the shoe or belt of your choice, with the leather type and color selection of your choice, and the selection is vast. Fun way to shop!]
VISIT Teatro Massimo [30-minute guided tour to explore the stunning auditorium and the most interesting Halls of the third largest opera house in Europe]
DAY TRIP: [Monreale: 10km from Palermo, this hill town is a must visit. It’s a charming little town with its main attraction being the Cattedrale of Monreale. It’s a Norman style cathedral with the most incredible ornate mosaics you have ever seen. Don’t miss the walk up to the tower – it’s worth the 4 Euros it costs and the very narrow hallways you have to navigate. The vast view from up there of the area is beautiful] > [Segesta: on the way to Trapani/Erice you can stop to visit the ruins of a well preserved ancient greek temple. The temple itself is beautiful, but in a bit of a tacky, touristy site. There’s also a Greek theatre up the hill] > [Trapani: close to Erice & a good stop for lunch if you want to eat amazing couscous. The town itself is nothing special, but the couscous at Osteria la Bettollacia is life changing!] > [Erice: very charming historic town located on top of Mount Erice, at around 2,460 ft above sea level, with spectacular views of the coast. Very, very windy road up to Erice]
AGRIGENTO
I only mention Agrigento to say that you can skip it. It’s known for the Valley of the Temples archeological site, but it’s not worth the trip just for that. In case you happen to be in the area, eat at Re di Girgenti. Beautifully designed restaurant with amazing tilework and views of the temple. Also, Trattoria Il Pescatore in the nearby town of San Leone has great seafood.
** I need to mention that we were supposed to eat at La Madia, considered the best restaurant in Sicily, but our reservations got mixed up and we could not go. It’s located in Licata between Agrigento and Modica, and apparently worth traveling to, even if a bit out of your way.
MODICA
This is by far my favorite town in Sicily. It’s an amazing example of Baroque architecture set against the surrounding rocky mountains. It’s not overly touristy as nearby Noto, and very charming.
SLEEP Casa Talia is a must! It’s a cluster of restored stone buildings with incredible views of town. It’s very un-hotel-like and blends with its residential neighborhood which you will feel part of. Each room is individually decorated and we stayed at Casa Buendia, which is a small house with a kitchen & washing machine if you want to make this your base for exploring the surrounding areas. I did get to see some of the other rooms and they are all extremely charming. Hopefully Nadir, the caretaker, will be there. He will attend to your every need always with a smile on his face
EAT We unfortunately did not have a great meal in Modica. Avoid La Locanda del Colonello or Osteria dei Sapori Perduti - mediocre food. Modica is known for its chocolate & Antica Dolceria Bonajuto is the oldest chocolate factory in Sicily. The chocolate is interesting but a bit grainier than what I’m used to.
SEE Walk up and down the narrow streets and lanes, and get lost. That’s the best way to explore this fascinating city.
DAY TRIPS
Ragusa: built on a hill between two valleys, this is another charming town worth a visit. A bit more touristy than Modica, but you can still get a sense of real life in this town. We went for dinner at Duomo by Ciccio Sultano, considered one of the best restaurants in the island. It was pretty old school and even though the meal was not bad, it was not worth the price.
Scicli: we did not get the chance to explore Scicli nearby, but have many friends who highly recommend it.
Noto: We did go instead to Noto, and even though the honey-colored building fabric of this town is stunning, it gets lost along streets packed with tacky souvenirs and lots of tourists. I would skip it if you don’t have a lot of time on the island.
Siracusa: we did not sleep in Siracusa but spent the day exploring Ortigia (small island connected to Siracusa and it’s historical center) on our way to Mt Etna area. I would recommend though spending a night or two here. A popular destination for visitors, but its charm has not been lost. Just walk around as much as possible. Every street you turn is more charming than the one before. The Piazza del Duomo is beautiful with majestic palaces surrounding its somewhat elliptical shape.
EAT Here we had one of the most incredible seafood meals ever over lunch at Osteria Appolonion. Go hungry and enjoy! I’m jealous :-)
For dessert the popsicles at Gelateria Stecco Natura were amazing. Next door Gelateria Gusto had a delicious Pistachio granita.
ETNA AREA
SLEEP Monaci delle Tere Nere is a super charming boutique hotel set in an organic farm. You will be at the base of Mt Etna, which is worth a visit, even though I did not go. Once I got to this hotel, I did not want to leave!
Or stay at Zash (more info below).
EAT You can eat dinner at the hotel, since there’s not much else nearby and the food is good and fresh (BTW the breakfast here was one of the best I’ve had in a hotel).
But if you can drive 25 minutes to Zash for dinner it will blow your mind. This is also a boutique hotel set in an old country manor & winery but completely modern in its décor. The food was amazing and the place incredible. I would stay here in a heart beat! It has a sister property called Ramo D’Aria nearby, also stunning.
DAY TRIP
Taormina: we drove to Taormina for the day and even though its setting is very beautiful off a cliff facing the sea, the town is overly touristy. The beaches nearby were mobbed with people. But I was told that at night time the tourist buses leave and the town is a bit more charming. If you happen to visit Taormina the main attraction is the Teatro Antico, an ancient Greco-Roman theater.
We took some steps (about a million of them truthfully) up a hill to the Madonna della Rocca, a very small church in a cave. The views are beautiful from here and it’s worth the hike.
* A big thanks to Jon & Julie for some of these great pics!