If you only have a week to spare, this is a nice itinerary that will allow you to get a taste for the country. Ireland is infamous for its rainy & cold weather, but it did not take away from the country’s beauty and charm. The Irish people could not be more lovely; fun & funny; witty & great storytellers. I shared this trip with my husband Michael, my lovely in-laws Harry & Deb and the up-for-anything couple Dave & Diana. Some of the pictures below are credited to them as well.
DAY 1
Arrive in Dublin
Walk around the downtown Dublin area to get a sense for the city - Christchurch Cathedral, Dublin Castle, Temple Bar, The Ha'Penny Bridge, Henry Street & Moore Street, Statues of O' Connell Street, The River Liffey, Trinity College, Merrion Square, St. Stephen's Green, The Grafton Street area. You can also hire a guide for a few hours and that’s what we did (airbnb Experiences or ToursbyLocals.com)
EAT Forest Avenue (amazing pre-fix dinner, reasonably priced)
STAY Fantastic airbnb in the Ballsbridge neighborhood. The hostess, Tess, is one of the best out there! https://www.airbnb.com/rooms/15575583.
DAY 2
All-day tour of Dublin’s north surroundings [ToursByLocals.com; Guide: Brian O., a really fun & knowledgeable guide] Places to visit [the fishing village of Howth, The Malahide Castle and Gardens; lunch at the Anglers Rest Pub and panoramic views of Dublin along the way]
EAT The original plan was to eat dinner at Cavistons, a seafood institution in Dublin, but we ended up staying at our fabulous airbnb and ordering pizzaJ
DAY 3
All-day tour of Dublin’s south surroundings [1. drive through the Wicklow Mountains which offer stunning views of valleys and lakes; 2. stop at the Glendalough Monastic city; 3. visit The Avoca Hand Weaver's which is Ireland's oldest hand weaver's dating back to 1723. You will see Avoca stores around Ireland but this is where it all started. If you can get a tour of the factory it’s a nice thing to do. The store sells beautiful wool apparel and gourmet goodies; 4. finish the day at the Powerscourt House and Gardens]. We had a guide who took us on this tour, but I would not recommend him. However you can find a guide at ToursByLocals.com, if you rather not do this on your own.
EAT Winding Stair [charming & popular restaurant along the river in downtown Dublin]
DAY 4
Pick up a rental car and drive west towards Galway/Connemara. The first & only stop is the Kylemore Abbey- about 4.5hrs away. Visit the Abbey, the very small and quaint Gothic Church & the Victorian Walled Gardens. From there drive to Ballynahinch Castle – about 30mins away - the lodging for the next 2 nights.
STAY Ballynahinch Castle [wonderful old castle adapted into a hotel and set in a 700 acre estate of beautiful woodlands, rivers and walks right in the heart of Connemara]
EAT Dinner at Owenmore Restaurant at the hotel.
DAY 5
AM: Go on a beautiful drive from Ballynahinch to Clifden [vibrant little market town with a U-shaped main street full of cafes, galleries & pubs]; then to the Sky Road [one of the most picturesque areas in the Connemara region. This is a circular route that will separate into the lower and upperroads. The lower road goes downhill towards the sea and will give you a very close up view of the landscape & coast, but the upper road is more popular because of the views it offers over the entire area. You can easily do both roads but if you have to pick one I would recommend the lower road]. The next stop is Mannin Bay [beautiful bay with white sandy beaches and cows grazing right along the dunes] and then the one after is Dog's Bay followed by Gurteen [both gorgeous beaches and if it’s not too windy make sure to walk along the beach and its surroundings]. Finally you will get to Roundstone, the last stop of the day [a small and one of the oldest fishing villages on the west coast of Ireland. Lunch at O'Dowds, a typical pub & a Connemara institution is a must]
PM: relax and walk around the castle’s estate
EAT Dinner at the Fishermen’s Pub at the hotel
DAY 6
The original plan was to head to the Aran Islands for the day, but in Ireland plans always revolve around weather conditions, and we were not able to ferry over to the islands. So instead we made our way along the coast to Galway - it’s the longer option than taking the road inland but an enjoyable drive with beautiful views. Galway is Ireland’s alternative city, more bohemian than Dublin and well known for its music scene (primarily Irish music) & theatre festival. The compact city center is the main area for a stroll.
STAY G Hotel [very colorful and over the top décor in a business style hotel, but a comfortable hotel nonetheless, not too far from the city center] Ard Bia and B [did not stay there but looks like a fun & funky two bedroom annex to the owner’s townhouse]
EAT Ard Bia at Nimmos [small & super quaint restaurant at the waterfront serving healthy dishes. Don’t be dissuaded by the healthy description, the food is delicious] Aniar [Michelin-starred restaurant with a very creative tasting menu] Kai [a cozy place headed by a Kiwi chef offering delicious hearty meals]
DAY 7
Drive The Wild AtlanticWay south to Dunguaire Castle [very popular and picturesque site for photographs]. The next stop will be The Hazel Mountain Chocolate [very charming café, chocolate factory & shop selling local objects and apparel. It’s worth the stop for coffee and cake. Continue on through the Burren region – a very unique limestone landscape - towards Doolin, a small fishing village.The Ivy Cottage is a good lunch spot. Then continue south to the famous Cliffs of Moher, but don’t stop at themain parking area whereyou’ll see lots of tour buse. Drive for another 10-12 minutes, following signs for an alternate parking lot until you find Liscannor Walk. A small private lot will be on your left side, and you’ll pay just 2 euros to park. It’s a great 30-45minute walk to the cliffs from there along beautiful pastures and stonewalls. Make sure to not stop where the tower is located, but to continue on to your right following the trail. The views get better!
STAY Gregans Castle Hotel [elegant, yet cozy 18thcentury house surrounded by beautiful gardens – we only spent one night here and wished we had one more]
EAT The restaurant at the hotel offers a very nice tasting menu that changes daily.
DAY 8
Drive to Shannon Airport and depart Ireland.