My husband is turning 50 this year and we decided to take a mini-sabbatical of 3 months in a country in Europe, and get more of a feel of what it would be like to live elsewhere. We chose Portugal for various reasons: neither of us had ever been there; I speak the language since I was born and raised in Brasil; it has good food, good wine, interesting culture, beautiful beaches, good cycling and so much more. I will share our adventure in parts and the first one is Lisboa where we spent our first month.
Lisboa
Lisboa is the oldest city in Western Europe, with very narrow mosaic sidewalks, lined up by old buildings and some with incredible tiled facades, Lisbon’s signature look (tiles are azulejos in Portuguese). It is a very picturesque city! Unfortunately most buildings are graffiti tagged like I have never seen in any other city around the world. Portugal had a brutal economic crisis from 2010 until 2014, when it got a bailout from the EU & an imposed economic adjustment programme as part of the deal. Ever since it’s economy has been recovering and that’s obvious everywhere you go. There is at least one building being renovated on every block of Lisbon, new restaurants & shops popping everywhere. Tourism has been a big part of this recovery, but we were shocked by the number of tourists even in April. Apparently in 2012, about 14.5 million tourists visited Portugal. In 2016 that number jumped to 22 million, and it has just been growing ever since. In my opinion, once a cruise ship terminal is built to allow a couple of massive ships to be docked at the same time (which we have seen happen), a City has sold it's soul to this terrible kind of tourism. Streets flooded by thousands of tourists at the same time, who just care to hit the very touristic spots, buy some cheap souvenirs and go back to the boat. We learned fast to avoid the very touristy neighborhoods (Bairro Alto & Baixa, Chiado & Alfama) and stick to the residential neighborhoods (Principe Real, Estrela, Campo de Ourique, Santos, etc). As for the Portuguese people, they won our hearts right away. So kind, generous, friendly and proud of their country, as they should be. Just to give you an idea, it rained a lot the first couple of weeks we spent in Lisbon and we needed an umbrella. We went into a tiny shop that sells a bit of everything, as these are absolutely everywhere around the city. We asked if they sold umbrellas but they only had the really big ones that would be hard to carry around as we continued our travels. We told them so, thanked them and were ready to leave the store, when the owner handed us 2 umbrellas, one each, and told us to just take them for free. We wanted to pay him something but he would not accept it. Amazing! And this was not a unique experience, but the norm. My only critique of the Portuguese is that they smoke, a LOT and they don't pick after their dog's poop :-) But, net, net, we loved "living" in Lisbon for a month!
SOME TIPS:
1. The best way to get around the city is walking, so you can really experience it, but wear comfortable shoes and be prepared to constantly walk up and down hills or stairways. Be mindful that if it rains, the cobblestone sidewalks get really slippery;
2. Uber or better Cabify (since I’m not a fan of Uber) are cheap options to get around and the subway is efficient & very clean. The trams are charming but always packed!
3. Eat the bread! It’s really good in Portugal and worth the extra carbs. Then just walk around for a few hours and you will easily burn it off with all the hills.
4. Check out the Experiences offered by locals at Airbnb. We did a photography tour & an e-bike tour of the 7 hills in Lisbon and they were great.
Here are some recommendations described by neighborhood:
PRINCIPE REAL
Perched up high with great views, this once sleepy district, is now trendy and full of restaurants. It is anchored by a pleasant square and shady garden. Note the hundred-year-old cedar that looks like a giant umbrella in the middle of the square. About 6 blocks down the hill there is another leafy square and garden called the Praça das Flores, surrounded by colorful town houses. Our favorite square in all of Lisbon! This is the neighborhood we stayed at and absolutely loved it.
DRINK Quiosque Príncipe Real [run by the charming Sr. Oliveira, this is a cult kiosk in the Principe Real park you will find locals hanging out at all hours of the day; great spot for a late afternoon beer. There’s usually live music late afternoons] Pavilhão Chinês [more of a treasure bazaar, than a bar, The Chinese Pavilion has thousands of pieces on display from art, to airplanes, miniature dolls, medals, military artifacts, etc. It’s trip!! We saw a traditional Fado concert there that takes place on Tuesdays] Gin Lovers & Less [Gin and nothing but gin. Great cocktails in a very cool space inside the Embaixada, shopping gallery] The Bar [owned & run by a charming Australian woman - Teresa, this small bar is a good place to have a drink & a conversation with her]
EAT O Prego da Peixaria [serves up “prego” sandwiches, which is the Portuguese equivalent of a burger, but instead of meat patty, Peixaria stuffs their sandwiches with fresh fish, shrimp, and squid] Pesca [serves very creative and refined seafood dishes. We did the chef’s menu and were impressed] A Cevicheria [ceviche with Portuguese flair – so, so delicious. Went there a few times. But be prepared, the place is small and the waits are long – no reservations] Copenhagen Coffee Lab[hipster coffee shop] Zero Zero[very good pizzeria] Bettina & Niccolo Corallo Chocolate Shop [out of this world chocolates, brownies, mocha, chocolate sorbet, all made by a mother & 2 sons. One of the best chocolates I have ever had, and I’m a chocoholic!]
SHOP Embaixada [a shopping gallery housed inside an Arabian Palace that hosts a series of national brands and artists focused on Portuguese design] Pau Brasil [beautifully curated space for Brazilian art, fashion & furniture; great space]
STAY We rented an airbnb for the month, but here are some hotel recommendations Casa Oliver Boutique B&B; Memo Principe Real - Design Hotel
BAIXA/CHIADO/BAIRRO ALTO
Downtown Lisbon is an 18th-century district that has been completely rebuilt after the 1755 earthquake & tsunami that had destroyed most of it. In the 20th century most of the buildings were taken over by banks and offices, deserting the area of residents. Many of these buildings were eventually left abandoned, but the neighborhood is now being reborn as a commercial and tourist area. And it is verytouristy!
SHOP A Vida Portuguesa [well-curated collection of Portuguese products] Feeting Room [sells clothing, shoes and accessories from Portuguese designers. Beautiful store] Conserveira de Lisboa [great store for sardines and other seafood in colorful tins. The packaging is incredible]
EAT Taberna da Rua da Flores [narrow & traditional room with artisanal products lining the walls, serving traditional tapas; get there early because the line is long but worthwhile! Very charming.] Bairro do Avillez [gastronomic space from renowned chef José Avillez, where you can find Mercearia which is a deli, a Peruvian Cantina & Pisco Bar, Páteo which is a courtyard space that serves seafood, Beco a cabaret-like restaurant behind a secret door and finally Taberna that serves traditional Portuguese food. It’s a beautiful space!] Cantinho do Avillez [everyone raved about this place but we were not impressed. Just mention it because it’s on everyone’s top list for Lisbon!] Landeau Chocolate [incredible chocolate cake that cannot be missed. They also have a store at LX Factory] Oficina do Duque [loved the space and the food was delicious – contemporary take on Portuguese cuisine]
DRINK By the Wine [great wine bar that serves tapas]
ALFAMA/GRAÇA
Alfama-18thcentury Moorish district and one of the oldest neighborhoods in Lisbon. It’s name comes from the Arab term "Al-hama" meaning 'source of hot water, good water’. It provides a step back in time with its narrow streets and stairways, tiny squares, historic churches, intimate cafes and residences hidden behind the clothes drying on a clothesline; Graça– just above Alfama, this neighborhood is one of my favorites in the City. Very residential, relaxed; it has a small-town feel to it.
SEE/DO First and foremost, walk around and get lost on the narrow, winding streets! Castelo de São Jorge [just to clarify, these are the ruins of a castle that offers amazing views of Lisbon. Get there early, right when they open, otherwise the lines are crazy!]Tram 28[the iconic yellow tram that is the centerpiece of Lisbon. It takes you across town from Alfama to Campo de Ourique. Great way to see the city, however it’s always pretty full and watch out for pickpockets]
VIEWPOINTS Miradouro da Graça [one of the best lookout points in the city. From here, you can see much of the old Lisbon, the castle, the pantheon, and the Alfama district] Miradouro da Senhora do Monte[higher up the hill from Graça, offers views of the Castle and views over the streets sloping down to the Tejo] Miradouro das Portas do Sol[it overlooks the domes and rooftops of Alfama district and the waterfront; great postcard view] Miradouro de Santo Estevão [still not very popular, this viewpoint is a quiet spot for a break after exploring the narrow streets of Alfama] Miradouro do Recolhimento[not very well known lookout point since it’s relatively new; not far from the castle, and in the shade of olive trees you have a beautiful view of Alfama] Miradouro de Santa Luzia[you can look over the terracota rooftops of Alfama and the river from this incredibly charming terrace, always filled with tourists snapping photos]
EAT Leopold [very small restaurant, with one seating a night and one tasting menu. The food is incredible, very creative & unexpected mix of ingredients, with the proteins all cooked with a sous-vide] Cozinha Urbana [hidden restaurant in a small hotel just down the street from Miradouro da Senhora do Monte. Sit out back in the charming courtyard and order the Takoyaki burger with tuna flakes, seaweed and Japanese mayo. It is a must!] Taberna Moderna [very nice space with a contemporary take on traditional dishes] Taberna Sal Grosso [very small space with the menu of the day on a blackboard. Order anything and it will be delicious]
DRINK Memmo Alfama Hotel [a bit hidden away from the touristic areas of Alfama. It has a great terrace for drinks with views of the neighborhood & river] Graça do Vinho [super charming wine bar]
STAY Mi Casa en Lisboa [very charming B&B] Santa Clara 1728 [minimalist & modern design in an 18thcentury building; pricey though!] Memmo Alfama Hotel [modern design hotel, also in an 18thcentury building]
CAIS DO SODRÉ
EAT Mercado da Ribeira – Time Out Market[most iconic shops or well-known chefs have an outpost at this market. It is bustling during lunch hour! Don’t miss the pastéis de nata at Manteigaria. These are the very famous custard tarts and they are indeed delicious. I recommend adding cinnamon on top]
DRINK A Tabacaria [this little bar used to be an old tobacco shop & serves great cocktails] O Bom, O Mau e o Vilão[translated as "The Good The Bad And The Ugly" this a bar has a quirky décor and feels as if you've stepped into a friend's fashionable drawing room]
SANTOS/ALCÂNTARA/SÃO BENTO
Santos is known for its design shops & Alcântara has several old warehouses converted into restaurants, especially by a marina under the 25 de Abril Bridge called the Santo Amaro docks. São Bento is a very interesting neighborhood full of antique shops, coffee shops & restaurants, just down the hill from Principe Real.
SEE LX Factory[located in a former 19th-century textile mill, LXFactory is now a creative hub for fashion, arts & gastronomy]
EAT Bowls & Bar [café that serves some healthy options for breakfast or lunch] FOOD[small organic grocery store; here you can find alternative yogurts & milks to the regular dairy products that are everywhere else] Mercearia Poço Negro [gourmet deli store run by a lovely couple; great cheeses, salumi, wine, etc] The Mill [Australian-Portuguese café with great coffee & breakfast] Hello Kristof [another very cool coffee shop] Café Boa Vida [good place for a healthy breakfast or lunch; also serves good coffee]
BELÉM
Is known as the historic district of the Age of Discovery. It was from its waterfront that Vasco da Gama and other explorers departed for their voyages and those events are celebrated with grand monuments and museums throughout the neighborhood. It is however extremely touristy and that is honestly a bit of a turn-off for me.
TO DO MAAT - Museum for Art, Architecture and Technology[located on the riverfront with a curved, wave-like building, offering great views of Lisbon & the Tagus River from the rooftop. Integrated to MAAT is the Electricity Museum in an industrial brick building next door that used to be a Power Plant until 1951. Beautifully curated so to give you an idea of what it was like inside a power plant that provided most of Lisbon’s electricity. Definitely worth a visit!] Monastery dos Jerônimos[a visit to this monastery is on everyone’s list of recommendations for Lisbon. We did try to visit it but the lines were insane, so we gave up. What we learned is that you should go around 4pm, right before they close, when the crowds have wounded down]
CAMPO DO OURIQUE/ESTRELA/AMOREIRAS
Very pleasant & residential neighborhood, holding on to traditional shopping and its old market.
EAT Bota Sal [a tasca near Jardim da Estrela serving great seafood] Mercado de Campo de Ourique [bustling marketplace where artisanal food vendors share space with informal bars & restaurants] Tasca da Esquina [simple, café-style restaurant with Portuguese tapas with a twist] Casa dos Passarinhos [if you want to experience a very traditional tasca (tavern-like kitchen selling simple, traditional food and for legions of lisboetas it’s a second home), this is the place to go] Aloma [traditional pastry shop with really good pastéis de nata] Imperial de Campo de Ourique [very traditional & family run tasca; eat the dishes of the day and you will not regret] Peixaria da Esquina [abundance of seafood options]
TO DO Food Tour [with Culinary Backstreets. We did the “Lisbon Awakens: A Culinary Crossroads, Reborn”and it was fantastic. It is a day-long tour off the beaten track. Be prepared to eat a LOT. You will tastediverse bites of Lisbon’s gastronomy such as egg pastries, goat meat stew, sardines, bacalhau which is a salted cod,vindalho (a meat dish that’s the Portuguese ancestor of Goan vindaloo),beef prego on bolo do caco (beef sandwich on a traditional bread from Madeira island) as well as signature Portuguese cheeses and wines. And last but not least, a shot of ginjinha, a smooth sour-cherry liqueur that is a traditional local eye-opener. By the end of it, we wanted to take our guide, Martim, home. We love him so much!] Parque da Estrela [very nice park & good spot for a picnic or a coffee at its kiosk]
STAY Casa Amora [another charming B&B]
FADO
When I read this description of fado it clearly described how I used to feel about it: “I don't think Fado is love at first sound. It also is not for everyone. When I first heard it, I thought all the songs sounded the same and I just didn't understand why it was so popular.” Then I saw Mariza’s concert in Berkeley and was hooked. She is an incredible Fado singer, the Amália Rodrigues of this century. Fado is pure exposure of emotions to the sound of a guitar. The songs are about nostalgic and melancholic feelings, about love amid pain, but also about the celebration of life. Even if you don’t understand the lyrics, you can sense all these emotions in the singer's voice and face (usually with the eyes closed and head tilted back). It’s pretty dramatic!
STREET MURALS
I have street murals as it’s own category since I’m a big fan! Two big names in Portuguese contemporary art are:
Bordalo II is known for using trash to create 3D art. He’s created a series of animals who face extinction using plastic trash bins, car tires, computers, printers and other machines, in an effort to demonstrate how trash is contributing to the loss of their natural habitats. We were lucky enough to go to his studio and meet him in-person (thanks Lloyd Sacks!) and were very impressed by his talent & generosity.
Alexandre Farto (aka “Vhils”)sculpts expressive faces on the walls of dilapidated buildings.
Graça
Woman holding a gun with a flower in the barrel, by Shepard Fairey, represents the Portuguese revolution in order to rid the country from their dictator, Salazar, in 1974 (Rua Natália Correia)
Female face- Shepard Fairey painted half of a female face, while the Portuguese artist Vhils carved the other half (Rua Senhora da Glória)
Alfama
The Amália Rodrigues Pavement, by Vhils, this time using the traditional Portuguese cobblestone pavement, as a tribute to the most famous Fado singer, Amália Rodrigues (Rua de São Tomé, by Calçada do Menino de Deus)
Avenidas Novas
Three empty buildingsin one of the city’s busiest avenues, by several international artists: the Brazilians Os Gémeos, the Italians Blu and Eric Il Cane, and the Spaniard SAM3 (Avenida Fontes Pereira de Melo, by the Picoas metro station)
Bear + cub, by Bordalo II at the garden of the Museu Calouste Gulbenkian [houses the impressive private collection of a very wealthy British oil magnate. His collection is split into modern Portuguese art & ancient art from Egypt, to China, Persia, India, France. It's quite astounding!]
Alcântara
American street artist Brad Downey, by Vhils (Rua de Cascais, not far from LX Factory & Santo Amaro docks)
Gigantic Bee, by Bordalo II (LX Factory)
Santos
Another Face– by Vhils at the courtyard where the vegetarian restaurant Água da Bica is located (Rua das Gaivotas, 8)
Cais do Sodré
Fox– by Bordalo II on an abandoned building only a few blocks from the Time Out Market (Av. 24 de Julho x Rua do Instituto Industrial)
Xabregas
Monkey– on the wall of Bordalo’s studio, my favorite! (Rua de Xabregas 74)
Frog– just down the street from Bordalo’s studio
DAY TRIPS
SINTRA
Located about 45 minutes from Lisbon on the train, it is quite beautiful but be prepared to be in the midst of a LOT of tourists. We drove there with a guide and it took about 30 minutes. The earlier in the day you can go, the better to avoid the crowds.
Here are the main attractions that you can shuttle to, from downtown Sintra, or hike to along the steep trails within the forest. I recommend the hike!
Palácio da Pena [colorful hilltop castle visible from almost anywhere in Sintra. Definitely the most popular attraction and always very crowded. We did not go visit it, but if you do, just walk the castle grounds and don’t stand in line to go inside. From what I learned, the inside of the castle is not worth the wait] Castelo dos Mouros [ruins of a medieval hilltop castle built in the 10thcentury by the Muslim populations that occupied the Iberian Peninsula. It offers incredible views of the area. This was STOP 1] Parque e Palacio de Monserrate [Extraordinary villa with wonderful gardens. We did not get to visit it, but was high on our list. This could be STOP 2] Quinta da Regaleira [Unique palace adorned with symbolic carvings associated with Masonry and the Knights Templar, in landscaped grounds with lakes, grottos and tunnels. There are two mysterious wells that resemble inverted subterranean towers that apparently were used for ceremonial purposes, as well as initiation rites for practitioners of Tarot or Masons. This was my favorite place and STOP 3]
We did drive to Cabo da Roca as well, the western most point in continental Europe. If it’s a clear day it offers great views. You can also hike to Cabo da Roca from surrounding beach towns. Our final stop was Caiscais, and it was a bit disappointing. It’s an upscale town with interesting architecture at a beautiful coast, but it unfortunately has been taken over by tourism overshadowing its charm. And this was April, so I cannot imagine what it looks like in the summer!
SESIMBRA
If you are not going to any beach towns in Portugal, and want to go to a beach while in Lisbon, Sesimbra is a good option for a day-trip. Take bus 207 from Praça da Espanha. It’s available every hour and takes about 55 minutes to get to Sesimbra. Go for lunch at Restaurante Filipe, not far from the fort facing the ocean. Select the fresh fish of your preference and they will put it on a BBQ grill. So simple & absolutely delicious.
CURIOSITIES
Portuguese queen Catarina de Bragança married the English king Charles II, and she introduced tea to the English. Portugal had a colony in China, Macau, from where they brought tea leaves, but the word tea did not exist in the English language. It derives from the name of the company that distributed the leaves – Transporte de Ervas Aromáticas.
It is also said that King Charles II was very unfaithful to Queen Catarina with other women in Court, so she instilled tea time in the afternoon, and all the women in Court would were invited. When one did not show up, Catarina knew she was with the King. And this is how afternoon tea time became a ritual for the English!