Sicily - 2016

ITINERARY – 10 days

Palermo [2] > Agrigento [2] > Modica [3] > Etna Area [3] 

PALERMO

Palermo may not be the natural choice for first-time visitors to Italy or even Sicily, but if you want a truly Sicilian experience, a couple of days in Palemo is a must. We had too quick of a visit to really experience all that this City has to offer. But be mentally prepared, especially if you decide to drive, for the most mind-blowing experience of chaos, where traffic rules, signage, lanes are merely suggestions. Most of the buildings in the City are old and they definitely show their age with faded and peeling paint, but that’s part of the charm of this City for an outsider like me (highly likely that a Palermitano would disagree). The streets are used as an extension of people’s living room after 5pm - Palermitanos socialize on the streets and squares & that are very lively with people shouting at each other from their terraces.

EAT Trattoria Piccolo Napoli [traditional seafood trattoria; let owner bring what’s fresh that day; you will be pleasantly surprised] Zia Pina [lunch only; we did not have the chance to eat here but if you want Mama’s homemade food in a hole-in-the wall place, this is the place to go]

DRINK Enoteca Piconi [historic wine shop & bar]

SLEEP Hotel Principe di Villafranca [nothing special, but in a good walkable neighborhood, close to a lot of the main attractions in the City]

SHOP Rizzo [custom made shoes, belts and purses; you get to see their different models, figure out your size and then have them fabricate the shoe or belt of your choice, with the leather type and color selection of your choice, and the selection is vast. Fun way to shop!]

VISIT Teatro Massimo [30-minute guided tour to explore the stunning auditorium and the most interesting Halls of the third largest opera house in Europe]

DAY TRIP: [Monreale: 10km from Palermo, this hill town is a must visit. It’s a charming little town with its main attraction being the Cattedrale of Monreale. It’s a Norman style cathedral with the most incredible ornate mosaics you have ever seen. Don’t miss the walk up to the tower – it’s worth the 4 Euros it costs and the very narrow hallways you have to navigate. The vast view from up there of the area is beautiful] > [Segesta: on the way to Trapani/Erice you can stop to visit the ruins of a well preserved ancient greek temple. The temple itself is beautiful, but in a bit of a tacky, touristy site. There’s also a Greek theatre up the hill] > [Trapani: close to Erice & a good stop for lunch if you want to eat amazing couscous. The town itself is nothing special, but the couscous at Osteria la Bettollacia is life changing!] > [Erice: very charming historic town located on top of Mount Erice, at around 2,460 ft above sea level, with spectacular views of the coast. Very, very windy road up to Erice] 

AGRIGENTO

I only mention Agrigento to say that you can skip it. It’s known for the Valley of the Temples archeological site, but it’s not worth the trip just for that. In case you happen to be in the area, eat at Re di Girgenti. Beautifully designed restaurant with amazing tilework and views of the temple. Also, Trattoria Il Pescatore in the nearby town of San Leone has great seafood.

** I need to mention that we were supposed to eat at La Madia, considered the best restaurant in Sicily, but our reservations got mixed up and we could not go. It’s located in Licata between Agrigento and Modica, and apparently worth traveling to, even if a bit out of your way. 

MODICA

This is by far my favorite town in Sicily. It’s an amazing example of Baroque architecture set against the surrounding rocky mountains. It’s not overly touristy as nearby Noto, and very charming.

SLEEP Casa Talia is a must! It’s a cluster of restored stone buildings with incredible views of town. It’s very un-hotel-like and blends with its residential neighborhood which you will feel part of. Each room is individually decorated and we stayed at Casa Buendia, which is a small house with a kitchen & washing machine if you want to make this your base for exploring the surrounding areas. I did get to see some of the other rooms and they are all extremely charming. Hopefully Nadir, the caretaker, will be there. He will attend to your every need always with a smile on his face

EAT We unfortunately did not have a great meal in Modica. Avoid La Locanda del Colonello or Osteria dei Sapori Perduti - mediocre food. Modica is known for its chocolate & Antica Dolceria Bonajuto is the oldest chocolate factory in Sicily. The chocolate is interesting but a bit grainier than what I’m used to.

SEE Walk up and down the narrow streets and lanes, and get lost. That’s the best way to explore this fascinating city.

DAY TRIPS

Ragusa: built on a hill between two valleys, this is another charming town worth a visit. A bit more touristy than Modica, but you can still get a sense of real life in this town. We went for dinner at Duomo by Ciccio Sultano, considered one of the best restaurants in the island. It was pretty old school and even though the meal was not bad, it was not worth the price.

Scicli: we did not get the chance to explore Scicli nearby, but have many friends who highly recommend it.

Noto: We did go instead to Noto, and even though the honey-colored building fabric of this town is stunning, it gets lost along streets packed with tacky souvenirs and lots of tourists. I would skip it if you don’t have a lot of time on the island.

Siracusa: we did not sleep in Siracusa but spent the day exploring Ortigia (small island connected to Siracusa and it’s historical center) on our way to Mt Etna area. I would recommend though spending a night or two here. A popular destination for visitors, but its charm has not been lost. Just walk around as much as possible. Every street you turn is more charming than the one before. The Piazza del Duomo is beautiful with majestic palaces surrounding its somewhat elliptical shape.

EAT Here we had one of the most incredible seafood meals ever over lunch at Osteria Appolonion. Go hungry and enjoy! I’m jealous :-)

For dessert the popsicles at Gelateria Stecco Natura were amazing. Next door Gelateria Gusto had a delicious Pistachio granita. 

ETNA AREA

SLEEP Monaci delle Tere Nere is a super charming boutique hotel set in an organic farm. You will be at the base of Mt Etna, which is worth a visit, even though I did not go. Once I got to this hotel, I did not want to leave!

Or stay at Zash (more info below).

EAT You can eat dinner at the hotel, since there’s not much else nearby and the food is good and fresh (BTW the breakfast here was one of the best I’ve had in a hotel).

But if you can drive 25 minutes to Zash for dinner it will blow your mind. This is also a boutique hotel set in an old country manor & winery but completely modern in its décor. The food was amazing and the place incredible. I would stay here in a heart beat! It has a sister property called Ramo D’Aria nearby, also stunning.

DAY TRIP

Taormina: we drove to Taormina for the day and even though its setting is very beautiful off a cliff facing the sea, the town is overly touristy. The beaches nearby were mobbed with people. But I was told that at night time the tourist buses leave and the town is a bit more charming. If you happen to visit Taormina the main attraction is the Teatro Antico, an ancient Greco-Roman theater.

We took some steps (about a million of them truthfully) up a hill to the Madonna della Rocca, a very small church in a cave. The views are beautiful from here and it’s worth the hike.

* A big thanks to Jon & Julie for some of these great pics!

New Zealand - 2016

ITINERARY – 22 days

Christchurch [1] > Mt Cook [1] > Wanaka [2] > Queenstown [2] > Milford Sound [2] > Dunedin [1] > Abel Tasman [3] > Wellington [2] > Turangi [2] > Rotorua [2] > Auckland [2] > Waiheke Island [2]

SOUTH ISLAND

We traveled most of the South Island in a campervan but would not recommend it. Driving around with a big campervan on windy roads and on the right side of the road is not an easy feat. My husband did an amazing job though! The work of plugging and unplugging the campervan so it can be charged; emptying the grey water tank, filling it with fresh water; emptying the toilet tank; setting up the beds inside the van at night and taking them down in the morning so you have a table to eat at and a place to sit, is more work than we wanted to deal with after a long day of driving, hiking or exploring. If we were to do it again, we would just have a car and stay at lodges along the way. 

CHRISTCHURCH

Is a fascinating & somewhat sad city at the same time. Over 1,000 downtown buildings had to be demolished due to damages caused by the earthquakes in 2010 & 2011.  Some reconstruction is underway, but the number of empty sites or crumbling buildings right in the middle of town is striking. One way the population has found to enliven the area is through street art, in particular graffiti- great murals all around. We took the historic cable car to the main attractions, since we only had a day in town, and walked around the main city park, which was quite beautiful. Re: START is an interesting complex of local shops and cafes in shipping containers.

COFFEE deserves its own category since it is so good all over NZ (this was a surprise since one does not associate NZ with great coffee). But our favorite coffee was at C1 Espresso, a retro coffee shop with pneumatic tubes that deliver food. Food is pretty good as well.

ARTHUR'S PASS

We drove out of our way to Arthur’s Pass Village on the way to Mt Cook. It's a scenic drive but not worth the extra time. Maybe taking a train ride from Christchurch aboard the Tranz Alpine would have been a more fun way to do this. Unless you are truly going over the pass on your way to Franz Joseph & Fox Glaciers (we did skip that due to our time constraints and since we had seen many glaciers recently on a trip to Patagonia). While at Arthur’s Village, which is BTW not much besides a visitor’s center, gas station & small market, we did a one-hour out & back walk to the Devil's Punchbowl Falls. Good way to stretch your legs.

MT COOK NATIONAL PARK

As you get closer to the park along the beautiful Lake Pukaki (crystal turquoise water), the views of Mt Cook (highest peak in NZ) are stunning. Hike the Hooker Valley track which is pretty flat with a few rocky sections. You will cross bridges & meadows always with incredible views of either the snowy mountains or Lake Pukaki at a distance. About 3hrs out & back.
We did not spend the night here, but inside the park there are some nice chalets as well as a pretty hip motel. 

WANAKA

Small resort town by Lake Wanaka. Even though it is quite touristy, it retains its charm and is much more appealing than Queenstown.

TO DO

Drive to Makarora, 50 minutes outside of Wanaka, for the Wilkin River Jets, Jumboland Wilderness Adventure - a 20 min helicopter flight into Mt Aspiring National Park, 4-hour walk & 30 min jet boat ride back. About $300/person, but worth the cost.

Hike up Mt. Roy. It starts in private farmland and then crosses into public land. It’s a big hike with a long downhill and recommended on a clear day so you can enjoy the incredible views - 5-6hrs out & back.

Funny French Car Tours – explore the surrounding area of Wanaka with Julie (who is a lot of fun) in one of her many refurbished vintage Citroens. You can visit wineries in the area & see the landscape off-roading in small countryside roads.

From Wanaka it's a short but dramatic journey over the Cadrona Saddle to Queenstown/ We stopped at Arrowtown on the way (small and historic gold mining town), but it was a bit “Disney-like”. You can stop for lunch or dinner at Amisfield, but book a table ahead of time. An alternative drive is through Cromwell on route 8 to go through the Kawarau Gorge - spectacular drive about 1hr longer.

QUEENSTOWN

The setting of Queenstown on the shores of Lake Wakatipu and at the base of the Remarkables Mountains is quite beautiful, but the town itself is nothing special. It’s overrun with businesses catering to travellers, in particular the ones seeking some crazy adventure.

TO DO 

The Queenstown Hill Walkway is easily accessible from Queenstown city centre. It is a very demanding walk but relatively short that offers great views of QT, Lake Wakatipu and the Remarkables. Make sure to dress warmly, since it can get pretty nippy on the top.

Drive to Glenorchy, 45 minutes from Queenstown, for a very scenic drive and to get to one of the starting points of the Routeburn Trek. We decided to do only the first third of it as a day trek. We walked out & back to Routeburn Flats, about 16km/10 miles for 6-7 hours. The trail is excellent all the way with a gradual climb on the way in and downhill on the way back. For an extra challenge you can climb to Routeburn Falls for stunning views and it will add another 3km/2 miles to your hike. We did not do this since it was raining so hard! Come prepared for rain & cold weather. The weather is unpredictable and changes very fast.

SLEEP We needed a break from the campervan today, so we decided last-minute to rent an apartment at The Rees Hotel & Luxury Apartments. It was wonderful: we got to wash and dry all our dirty, wet clothes after a day at the Routeburn Trek; take a nice warm shower and have dinner overlooking Lake Wakatipu. 

MILFORD SOUND

The 4-hr drive to Milford Sound is stunning.

TO DO
Kayaking around the sound, weather permitting. We did the Milford Magic tour (2.5hrs kayaking; 2hrs boat tour) with Sea Kayak Fiordland and it was worth it. About $150/person.

Milford Trek is a multi-day trek, but has parts that can be done as a day-trek. Due to a lot of rain and the trek being so wet, we skipped the hike. 

If you want just a quick taster, the Key Summit track follows the Routeburn Track for about an hour before peeling off for a 30-minute climb to the summit. This is recommended on a clear day because you’ll feel like you’re on top of the world. It’s a good opportunity to cheat, and soak up some stunning alpine scenery in a fraction of the time you need to allocate for the Fiordland’s multi-day treks. Begin at The Divide car park on the Milford Road.

SLEEP Milford Sound Lodge is pretty much your only option unless to stay in Te Anau. 
We cheated here again, and stayed at one of their beautiful newly built cabins. They have a restaurant on site or a communal kitchen if you rather make your own food. They also have laundry facilities. 

DUNEDIN

Pretty disappointing industrial town that can be skipped.
The Otago Peninsula outside of town is a nice area to explore. We hiked to Victoria beach, to Lover's Leap and Sandfly Bay, searching for yellow-eyed penguins. Even though we never saw any, the ocean vistas were impressive. 

EAT Plato Super funky & relaxed eatery with great seafood.

** We missed Kaikoura, north of Christchurch, which is a wildlife heaven and beautiful little town. You can go whale watching or swimming with dolphins in this area. 
This is where I would have stayed: Hapuku Lodge & Tree Houses.

ABEL TASMAN

We flew from Dunedin to Nelson and with a rental car drove first to Motueka. Since we knew we would be missing the last sea shuttle to our next destination, we spent the night in Motueka at a great house (more info below). The next day, we took the Sea Shuttle from Kaiteriteri to Awaroa on our way to Pepper’s Lodge (more info below). It’s a beautiful boat ride along the many beaches of the Abel Tasman coast.

SLEEP

Pepper’s Awaroa Lodge is at Awaroa beach and can only be reached with the sea shuttle or if you hike in. A few nights here is highly recommended!

An Island Getaway – 2-bedroom house at the beach (booked thru Booking.com). Great spot; since it’s in a small island, the owner will take you across on a small boat. Their dog Buck will be your companion during the length of your stay!

EAT Toad Hall in Motueka [healthy food and juices, big garden out back, small market]; Celcius Coffee [great organic coffee & small bites]

TO DO

Abel Tasman Trek runs along the Abel Tasman Coast. We did part of the trek from Pepper’s Lodge and it was absolutely stunning with stops along beaches for a swim or picnic. Don’t miss this! Even if you are not staying at Pepper’s Lodge, you can take the sea shuttle to one of the beaches, hike as long as you want and get picked up by the sea shuttle at the end of your hike. You just have to make sure to coordinate your schedule/location with the shuttle’s schedule/stops.

If you are staying at the lodge, you can also go on kayak tours along the coast.

The drive through the Takaka Valley on the way to Wharariki beach/Cape Farewell is gorgeous. We skipped it in order to relax at the beach from moving around every day. Wharariki beach is an amazing deserted beach only 1-hr drive from Takaka, followed by a 30-minute farm walk; and you can walk from there to Cape Farewell. Wharariki is big in every way: big waves, big cliffs, big sand dunes, big caves, and even bigger winds! 

NORTH ISLAND

WELLINGTON

One thing you will notice right away about Wellington is that it is one of the windiest places you probably have ever been to. And this comes from someone who lives in San Francisco. It’s an interesting town; somewhat disjointed but with cool spots of hip, young cafes, and good restaurants. However, I would not spend more than 2 days here.

EAT House of Dumplings [we stumbled upon this tiny place and the dumplings were absolutely incredible. Best to date!]; Jano Bistro [trying a little too hard but still good food]; White-bait [awesome seafood]; The Flight Coffee Hangar [great coffee & food]

SLEEP Ohtel is a very small boutique hotel at a very convenient location at Oriental Bay. 

TO DO

Te Papa Museum is the national museum of NZ, and will cover its history. There are  also a lot of interesting temporary exhibits.  

Right behind Ohtel is Mt Victoria. It’s a steep hike up to Mt Victoria’s Lookout, but it will offer great views of Wellington. 

TURANGI

We were told that unless you are into fly-fishing for trout or will hike the Tongariro Alpine Crossing, there is no reason to go to Turangi. Even though our reason for coming here was to hike the Tongariro Alpine Crossing, we were pleasantly surprised how beautiful of an area it is, and were really glad we went.

The Tongariro Alpine Crossing was, on the other hand, a bit of a disappointment. Not because it’s not a very pretty hike, but because it is mobbed with people and kids. A bit of a shit show! It is a full-day hike (about 19kms) that is pretty challenging with every possible season in one day, so go prepared for the elements. You will have to arrange for transport to drop you at the beginning of the track and pick you up at the end of the day. The track starts at the Mangatepopo Valley and finishes at Ketatahi Road. Following the track in this direction means the least amount of climbing involved.

SLEEP River Birches Lodge was so absolutely charming with only 3 rooms and a separate cottage. Althea is the caretaker with her husband and she prepares delicious breakfasts, she can also cook dinner if you like or will recommend and book dinners nearby. She prepared an incredible lunch for us to bring in our trek.

Also don’t miss the walk along the river just behind the lodge. 

ROTORUA

We wanted to see the Rotorua area and all its fascinating landscape of hot springs, but skip the tacky touristy sites, so we decided to spoil ourselves and stay at the Solitaire Lodge. It’s an all-inclusive lodge perched atop of Lake Tarawera.

TO DO

You can borrow kayaks and explore the lake around the lodge.

Or hike to the Tarawera Falls. The lodge will transfer you via boat to a spot where you begin this 3-hr out & back hike. We never got to see another soul aside from the end point where the falls are, so it was an antidote to the mobbed Tongariro Alpine Pass hike. 

Enjoy some spectacular swimming holes along the way with crystal clear water. The boat will be back to pick you up at the end of the hike.

Tarawera Thermal Springs – at the early morning the lodge will transport you via boat to this natural thermal spring for a soak before you head back for breakfast.

Again, nobody around and the light at that time of day is incredibly beautiful.

AUCKLAND

Is a fine town, but we have concluded at this point that one does not go to NZ for it’s cities, but for it’s nature!

EAT Depot [tapas; delicious!]; Masu [great Japanese food]; Odettes [healthy breakfast & dinner]

SLEEP Hotel DeBrett is also a relatively small boutique hotel in the downtown area. Good but not great!

WAIHEKE ISLAND

One-hour ferry ride from Auckland, worth a few nights stay. Incredibly magical island with great beaches, vineyards, farms and gorgeous landscape of native bushes. You will need a car to drive around the island. Some folks do it on scooters, but I would not recommend it along some of the dirt roads.

SLEEP The Oyster Inn offers 3 rooms at the back of their restaurant off the main road in Oneroa Bay. Oneroa Bay has a nice beach.

EAT Casita Miro [Spanish restaurant; funky; we were there on an off night, so did not have the best experience. Would still recommend it.]

TO DO

Man O’War Winery is at the opposite end of the island. The drive there is spectacular, and the setting of their tasting room right in front of the beach is brilliant. All you need is to find a bean bag along the lawn, get a glass of wine and a charcuterie platter. You will not want to leave!

Cable Bay has incredible view of the ocean with Auckland’s skyline at the back. Again all you need is a bean bag on their lawn and a glad of rose. They have very good rose here.

Mudbrick Restaurant & Vineyard did not try this place but heard great things about it.

 

 

Denmark - Sweden - Aland Islands - 2015

COPENHAGEN

EAT Noma [one of the best restaurants in the world; Nordic cuisine] 108 [casual sibling to Noma] Amass [Noma’s alumni chef, great space] Manfreds & Vin [wine bar with a 7-course menu] Relae [1st Michelin-starred restaurant in the world to obtain an organic certification] Radio [another Noma alumni checf] Baest [pizzas] Torvehallerne Food Market [great spot for lunch]

SLEEP Bertrams Guldsmeden [they have bicycles for rental; super convenient] SP34 Hotel [this is where I would stay next time I'm in Copenhagen]

TO DO [Bike everywhere. This is, hands-down, the best cycling City in the world that I have ever been to] [Alternative Christiania is a green and car-free neighborhood, best known for its autonomous inhabitants’ different way of life – pretty hippie. Freetown Christiania, as it is knows, is a mix of homemade houses, workshops, art galleries, music venues, cheap and organic eateries, and beautiful nature] [Jægersborggade hip street in the residential Nørrebro neighborhood is home to art galleries, organic produce shops, vintage clothes, ceramics and jewellery designers, as well as wine bars, coffee shops and restaurants (Relae & Manfreds)] [Meatpacking District in Vesterbro is a hipster area full of bars and restaurants. Make sure to explore the whole neighborhood. Sønder Boulevard is a greenbelt that crosses the middle of this neighborhood and hosts various outdoors activities]

SHOP Hay [furniture, home & office accessories]

FAVIKEN, SWEDEN

My friend Alessandra and I had a fun adventure getting to/from Faviken, just to enjoy a very special dinner:

flight from Copenhagen to Trondheim (Norway) > 2-hr taxi ride to Faviken > sauna to relax > 4-hr dinner > sleep at Faviken (5 rooms available) > more amazing food at breakfast > 1-hr taxi ride to Are > flight to Stockholm

It was worth every minute! Best dinner experience I have ever had in my life.

STOCKHOLM

SLEEP Hotel Rival [loved this hotel! Rooms were very nice, great neighborhood, non-touristy location] Miss Clara by Nobis [another great option]

EAT Oaxen; Oaxen Slip [more laid back] Flying Elk [great wine bar next door] B.A.R; Lilla Ego; Lux Dag for Dag

COFFEE Drop [near Hotel Rival] 

TO DO Fotografiska [great photography museum; don’t miss the cafe on the top floor for great views of the city] Mosebacke [unpretentious biergarten, full of locals and with nice views of the city] Djurgården [an island that can be reached by bike, ferry or bus. It can be a bit touristy where the amusement park is, but it's worth going to Rosendals Tradgard for lunch] Explore Gamla Stan, the old town.

SHOP Manos [ceramics, clothes and knick knacks in SOFO neighborhood] Nygardsanna [Swedish designer of linen clothing]

ALAND ISLANDS - FINLAND

Alessandra and I went on another adventure and decided to take Lotta’s Jansdotter Workshop Retreat on pattern design at the Aland Islands between Sweden & Finland.

From Stockholm 6.5-hour ferry ride through the archipelago to Mariehamn > 1-hr bus ride to take a small private boat to Silverskär, a very small private island.

This was a special place – setting, beauty, silence, the fresh food (fish caught in the morning, smoked and served for lunch; fresh veggies from the island; homemade bread; homemade everything! – thanks to Viktor). We got to do yoga on the small harbor's deck under the morning sun and enjoy the sauna in the evenings.  

Sardinia - Corsica - 2014

ITINERARY – 13 nights

Sardinia: Fly to Olbia/drive to Orosei [2] > Tempio Pausania [1] >Alghero [1] > Castelsardo [1] > Santa Teresa di Gallura [2] - Corsica: Ferry to Bonifacio [2] > Propriano [1] > Ajaccio [1] > Porto [1] > Calvi [1]

Michael and I, and a group of friends joined an organized bike tour of Sardinia and Corsica. As part of the tour, I will not be recommending any hotels – none of them charming, authentic or appealing to my design taste. Relatively large hotels that could have been anywhere in the world. Same with restaurants. We had very few opportunities to select our own restaurants, so I will mention only those.

We did however arrive a few days earlier in Sardinia so I will include more information on that. 

SARDINIA

Orosei has a picturesque historic centre with cobbled lanes that wiggle around pretty stone-built houses, churches and piazzas. Nice little place for kicking back and watching the world go slowly by. The coast along the Gulf of Orosei is extremely beautiful. If you have the chance to rent a boat and explore the coast, I would highly recommend it. We unfortunately did not have the time.

STAY Albergo Diffuso Mannois [simple inn set in rustic stone buildings; rent their e-bikes and ride along the coast to different turquoise-water-beaches]

Tempio Pausania - we did not get to see the town since the place we stayed at – details below – was hidden in the hills.

STAY L'Agnata di Andre [very charming B&B housed in a building with grapevines all over the facade and surrounded by a beautiful garden. It used to be the house of the famous Italian songwriter Fabrizio De André – the Bob Dylan of Italy. The house has been maintained as it was while Fabrizio still lived there. For fans of Fabrizio a visit to this property is a must. We got to experience some of them sitting in the garden, drinking wine and singing Fabrizio’s songs accompanied by an acoustic guitar. It was special! We stayed for only one night but wish we had a couple more. The restaurant there is delicious, and the place very relaxing] 

Bike Tour Begins...

Day 1: Alghero - beautiful coastal town encircled by ancient walls with a charming cobblestoned old center. This was the starting point to the bike tour.

Day 2: Castelsardo- ride inland through fields of wheat, farmland and distant villages. Castelsardo, the end point of today’s ride, is a hillside town overlooking the Tyrrhenian Sea. Make sure to walk up to the castle for beautiful views.

Day 3: Santa Teresa Di Gallura - not the most beautiful ride until Santa Teresa di Gallura’s coast is approached. The town itself is another nice little town, but the coast and beaches are stunning.

Day 4: La Maddalena’s Archipelago  - beautiful wooden boat ride to La Maddalena with a stop at a very remote beach. The captain served up a delicious meal on board with local wine and homemade mirto - a Sardinian liqueur. No riding today.

CORSICA

Day 5: Bonifacio - ferry to Corsica – the views of Bonifacio perched atop the rocks from the ferry are magnificent. This was my favorite town in Corsica. Spend at least a couple of nights here since the old town is charming and the beaches in the area incredible.

EAT L'epicerie Corse [stop at this wine & charcuterie shop, for a glass of wine and a taste of Corsican cheese and cold cuts] Chez Ange [tiny French restaurant with tables on the sidewalk. Very charming spot for dinner]

Day 6: Day at the beach in Bonifacio

Day 7: Propriano - hilly ride with views of the coastline. We stayed outside of town, so cannot vouch for Propriano.

Day 8: Ajaccio - ride along the countryside and coastline along the bay of Propriano all the way to Porticcio – then shuttle to Ajaccio. Ajaccio is the largest town and capital of Corsica and Napoleon Bonaparte’s birthplace. A day is enough time to explore this town.

Day 9: Porto - the most incredible day of riding with amazing scenery - ride along a wonderful coastal road with white sandy beaches - climb towards Cargese, a very picturesque village – then ride ten miles through the astonishing coastal area of Les Calanche, a UNESCO World Heritage Site, with red and pink granite spires that soar above the sea - descend to Porto, a sleepy village.

Day 10: Calvi - another incredibly scenic ride  - tough climb out of Porto - zip-inland through lush mountains with eucalyptus trees and meandering cows and goats – take a very bumpy road along the coast with turquoise blue waters and white sandy beaches all the way to Calvi. Calvi is a charming town and it’s worth spending a day walking around.

EAT U Casanu [tiny place that serves delicious seafood. If you like octopus, don’t miss it!]

Bhutan - 2014

Visiting Bhutan was an unforgettable experience. It’s possibly one of the most remote countries I have been to perched on the edge of the Himalayas. It is a Bhuddist Kingdom and a constitutional democracy so the Bhutanese get to vote for their leaders, but still adore their king and queens and quite frankly in their hearts, they are still their true leaders. Bhutan measures its success as a country, as a society through Gross National Happiness (GNH), where the happiness of the Bhutanese people is of equal or more importance than economic growth or material gains (GDP). And they are truly happy and lovely people! It is also a country very focused in preserving its cultural heritage (all the buildings have to incorporate vernacular flourishes like hipped roofs and wood-framed windows. They also have a dress code which obliges the Bhutanese to wear traditional clothing inside temples or governmental buildings) and protecting the environment (more than 50% of the country is made of protected national parks and reserves & 72% of it forested). 

The only practical way in and out of Bhutan is to fly from Thailand or India on Drukair. Their pilots have to go through rigorous training to be able to land in the Paro Valley - not an easy feat. Note that tourism in Bhutan is restricted, so visitors are required to travel as part of a pre-arranged package or guided tour, so to avoid the hordes of backpackers that have overrun Nepal. 

We got to visit important valleys in Bhutan: the capital of Thimphu; the tropical Punakha valley; and the emerald valley of Paro.

ITINERARY – 10 nights

Paro [1] > Thimphu to Punakha [4] > Paro [1] > Bumdra Monastery Camp [1] > Paro [2] 

STAY Uma Paro, Uma Punakha & Bumdra Monastery Camp (all-inclusive)

Day 1: Arrive in Paro, from Bangkok. We (my husband Michael and I, and dear friends, Alessandra and Peter) got picked up at the airport by Gopal who would be our driver during our stay and Ugi, our guide.

Day 2: Paro to Punakha Valley via Thimphu and Dochu La. Thimphu is the capital of Bhutan and the centre of government, religion and commerce. Things to see: town viewpoint at the Big Buddha statue, Folk Heritage Museum & Trashi Chhoe Dzong.

Following the ride to Thimphu, the drive to Punakha is truly awe-inspiring as it zigzags up to the mountain through the Dochu La with its prayer flags & maze of memorial chortens and views ofthe Himalayan range. Duration of drive: 3-4 hours

Day 3: In the morning we hiked up through farmland to Khamsum Yuley Namgay Chorten, a shrine built by the royal family. This ornate structure has superb views of the valley. In the afternoon we visited the magnificent Punakha Dzong. This fortress monastery was built in 1637 in a commanding position at the confluence of the Po Chhu and Mo Chhu (Father and Mother rivers). It once served as the seat of the Kingdom's government and is now the winter home of Je Khempo, the head Abbot of Bhutan, along with 1,000 monks.

Day 4: Drive to the Sangchhen Dorji Lhuendrup Lhakhang Nunnery and then to the Talo Nobgang village. We hike down through chir pine trees, passing a school, farms and farmers houses and our final destination is the Punakha Dzong where we have a picnic lunch. In the afternoon we visited Chimmi Lhakhang, a fertility temple dedicated to Drukpa Kuenley, a Tibetan Buddhist saint known popularly as the Divine Madman (there are penises everywhere, a symbol of fertility in Bhutan)

Day 5: Hike up to Chotren Nibu and Khabasa village. Chotren is a monastery that houses orphans from the nearby village where the children can study both traditional Buddhist scriptures and texts, and also learn Western subjects. There is an incredible oak tree outside the monastery.

Day 6: We retrace our steps back to Paro and spend the rest of the day enjoying the hotel and its magnificent spa treatments.

Day 7:  Hike from Sang Choekor Buddhist College (2,800m) to the Yak pasture below Bumdra Monastery (3,800m), where we glamped. We were accompanied by mules to carry our stuff and that made the hike much easier. We were so impressed with the multi-course dinner that was served literally in the middle of nowhere with no built structures. Everything cooked inside a tent covered in yak skin! We did have a hard time with the altitude though, and consequently a rough night.

Day 8: Hike from our camp to Taktsang Monastery, best known as Tiger’s Nest. After a few hours of descent we caught glimpses of the golden roofs of temples below and as we got closer we got to see the Monastery perched against the cliff-face of a gorge. It is phenomenal!

Day 9: We spent most of the day relaxing at the hotel and took a hot stone bath followed by a massage. That’s all we needed after 2 days of hiking. We did go for a short walk on trails right behind the hotel that lead us to the beautiful Paro Dzong (fortress monastery).

Day 10: We were lucky to be in Bhutan at the time of the Paro Tsechu festival, one of the most popular festivals in Bhutan. A Tsechu is a Buddhist festival in honor of Guru Rimpoche, the saint who brought Buddhism to Bhutan. It was held at the Paro Dzong and featured dances with amazing masks and costumes. In preparation for the festival, Alessandra and I got traditional Bhutanese dresses called kiras - a belted dress(a men’s traditional outfit is called a gho - tunic-like with knee-high socks) and proudly wore it to the festival.

Day 11: It was time to say goodbye, but not before trying archery which is the national sport. Obviously we were terrible at it and kept Gopal and Ugi pretty entertained.

Fascinating custom - courtship ritual called night hunting: a young man will make arrangements with a girl for a what is basically a consensual one-night stand, then sneak into her parent's house that night to consummate the deal. If he manages to leave without being caught, he is under no obligation to marry her. If he wants to marry her, he can stay for breakfast. Ha! I love this :-) 

 

 

 

*Thanks to Alessandra and Peter for some of these great pics!